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Re: [FlyRotary] Wiring Techniques was [FlyRotary] Re: Another case of heat-soaked coils?
Not something that I have tried, Don. Looks like it
could be best of both worlds {:>). That way you would not have to take
the screw all the way out (and risk dropping it into one of those wormholes
where you can never find it), but still would not let the terminal just drop out
because the screw was not tight.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 11:59 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Wiring
Techniques was [FlyRotary] Re: Anothercase of heat-soaked coils?
Something I do
is cut the eye terminal to look like a question mark [?]. That way it is more
secure than just a “U” terminal.
Don Solomon
Cozy
#1169
Durango, CO (DRO)
http://www.maddyhome.com/canardpages/pages/triptrish/index.html
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Reply-To:
"Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Date:
Sun, 28 May 2006 11:42:08 -0400
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft"
<flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Subject: [FlyRotary] Wiring
Techniques was [FlyRotary] Re: Another case of heat-soaked
coils?
I use the same basic technique as outlined by Tracy.
I crimp, then solder, then place a shrink wrap around each terminal to
wire connection area. I then wrap the cable in some type of abrasion
resistant cover (I like the split corrugated plastic tubes make for this) .
Then Adel clamps to relive stress of the entire cable package.
Also When terminals are called for I almost always use
those terminals with the a "closed" loop for the screw. In other words,
I do not use terminals that are shaped like a "U". The reason is that
should the terminal screw be just a bit loose the connector could drop out.
With the close connector the screw has to back all the way out for the
terminal drops away from the connection - just might give you time to notice a
loose screw. The only down side, is if you do need to disconnect it you
have to take the screw all the way out which can be a pain if you have many to
undo.
Thus far, I have not had a loose connection or other
electrical problem of any type (due to wiring or connectors). In fact,
the only electrical problem I have had was when the bias resistor in the base
of the leading coil burnt out early on in testing - replaced it with a 10 watt
resistor and all has been well.
Ed
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary
Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson@carolina.rr.com
-----
Original Message -----
From: Tracy Crook <mailto:lors01@msn.com>
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 11:00
AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Another case of
heat-soaked coils?
First,
DON"T EVER attempt to stress relieve a wire junction bundle with
Silicone Rubber RTV! It cures with acetic acid which corrodes
electrical
connections!!!!
Stress
relieving wires is potentially a long subject so I'll have to reduce
it to basic principle. In most cases, the concentrated
stress with soldered connectors is a red herring argument (having no
basis). Connectors generally have integral stress relief
features built into the backshell which prevent stress from vibration
& cable movement from reaching the point in the wire that has
solder wicking into the strands. I usually go one step further
and put a piece of heat shrink sleeving over the wire bundle where it
leaves the connector.
There are innumerable
other methods of stress relieving wires. Adel clamps, wire
lacing cord, and tie wraps are the most common. Just keep
vibration from causing wire to flop around - That's the whole basis of
stress relief in electrical work.
-----
Original Message -----
From: Thomas y Reina Jakits <mailto:rijakits@cwpanama.net>
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2006 3:36
PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Another case
of heat-soaked coils?
Tracy,
would you be so kind
and elaborate on your way to do "stress relief" on solder/wire/cable
joints?
Thanx
TJ
-----
Original Message -----
From: Tracy
Crook <mailto:lors01@msn.com>
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 9:41
PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Another case
of heat-soaked coils?
Thought
the coils were a long shot.
I'm still
not sure where the connection that failed was (connector contact
or the unknown connection at the end of the pigtail left by
cutting the connector off the Mazda harness) but I do like
treating all connector contacts with a corrosion inhibitor.
My favorite is Corrosion X. I like soldered
connections for this reason too. I'll do my own stress
relief to get it away from the potential stiff connection at the
solder joint. To each his own
though.
Tracy (Granddaughter gone
for the summer, Aahhhh.......... : )
-----
Original Message -----
From: Thomas y Reina
Jakits <mailto:rijakits@cwpanama.net>
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 8:54
PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Another
case of heat-soaked coils?
Get some
SP-400!
If you fancy it, mask the to be treated area -
then aply a thin coat (shake
the can really well and repeat
often...).
Get over any all connectors that are suspect to
moisture.
It will form a thin wax like coat. Re-apply at
least one more time after a
couple of hours or
overnight.
Areas that are really in the "wet" you should
apply up to 5 coats.
It takes a while to do a good job,
but:
It is transparent - you alway see the connection
The
coat gets a little harder with time, but always stays
flexible
It made my day on a Bell-47 for 3 month on the
ocean!!
TJ
----- Original Message -----
From:
"John Slade" <sladerj@bellsouth.net>
To: "Rotary
motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent:
Friday, May 26, 2006 11:31 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re:
Another case of heat-soaked coils?
> Well it
wasn't the coils after all.
> Florida humidity had gotten
to one of my crank angle sensor connectors.
> Problem
solved.
> Coils returned.
> $206 back in my
pocket.
> Life is good
> John
>
>
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> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/
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