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All thread is a rod/bar that is threaded from end to end. I believe
All-thread is a trade name for threaded rod. In this case my friend
(Bob Darrah, to give proper credit for a brilliantly simple solution to
this problem) used a scrap piece of All-thread (approx. 18" long)
that was laying around the shop. The o.d. was too large to
use as is, so he turned down one end (approx 2 inches) and re-threaded it
with the appropriate metric thread for screwing into the small
e-shaft. If you have ever used a long bar to move a heavy object,
this works on the same principle. I can post a picture, but you
would have to wait for my next trip to Bob's place (about 50 mi. round
trip).
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Now for the exciting stuff... Yyyyyeeeeeesssss! On 9/15/03 Bob
Darrah and I did a first start on my rebuilt 20B in my Lancair ES
project. My project is very similar to Tom Parks' Turbo 20B Lancair
ES, but w/o the turbo. We had some issues to deal with, mainly
electrical. Since I couldn't find a current draw number for the LS1
coils I guessed at 5a for the 3 leading coils, and 5a for the 3
trailing. After it refused to start, we started checking for
possible problems. Fuel pumps were functioning, so we had
fuel. One injector was stuck open, flooding that cylinder.
Luckily, I had bought a set of 8 new 43# injectors. So, I replaced
the bad injector. Still wouldn't start. We continued to check
for what might be amiss. The timing had been set statically and was
close (well, close enough. More on this later.). We had
compression. We checked for spark, but there was no spark.
So, we re-checked the wiring of the 6 coils. They were wired
according to Tracy's instructions. We checked to see if we had 12v
at the coils, but there was none. Ahah. We were on to
something now! Check for voltage at the coil switches and it was
dead. Next we checked the ESS Buss fuses. The culprit was
that we had blown both 5a fuses. OK, that's easy, just replace them
with 7.5a fuses. Try again to start the engine. The engine
tried to start, then back to the same story (no fire). Check the
7.5a fuses, they were both blown. That's strange. OK, replace
them with 10a fuses. Engine starts briefly, then quits and refuses
to restart. Check plugs... all wet. Clean plugs and try
again... nothing. Check the 10a fuses... both blown!!! This
is getting annoying. OK, replace the two 10a fuses with two 15a
fuses. (Side note... the coils were wired with 16 guage wire, so I
wasn't worried about starting an electrical fire.) Try again... NOW
IT RUNS!!!
But it dies whenever I turn off the cold start switch.
;-( Run it some more, try again... still dies. Later on
I figured out what was happening. I have the turbo version of the
EC2. The turbo's engines run 550cc injectors. Since I decided
not to turbo-charge, I switched to smaller 43lb/450cc injectors.
So, it dawned on me that I need to increase the duty-cycle on all my
injectors to account for the difference in fuel flow. So, time to
go back and re-read Tracy's instructions.
Side note: After the dust/smoke had cleared and the big grin had
left my face, I sat down and re-read Tracy's instructions. It says
to set the timing initially to 35 degrees, and then later it will be set
with a timing light to 20 degrees. I had misread part of the
instructions and made my initial setting at 20 degrees. Not that it
prevented it from starting, but it was one more detail that I had
missed. It starts a little easier when set to 35 degrees.
***The big story here is the muffler. This is a N/A 20B. The
exhaust is 2" SS from the ports past the first 90 degree bend and
then it changes to a 3" SS pipe the remainder of the way. I
was hoping to get away from hanging a heavy, boxy Spin-tech muffler on
the bottom of the fuse. I searched the web and found an auger
shaped baffle design and decided to build one and try it. Its made
of SS, about 20" long and fits into the last 2 ft. of the exhaust
system. Even though I didn't take any readings, the exhaust, while
not whisper quiet, was very tolerable. For comparison we ran it
once without the baffle. What a difference. Quick, put it
back in before the neighbors call the cops! So, if it holds up
under WOT operations, I'll be very happy. The baffle weighs about 1
lb. (see attachment).
Another success story... I mounted the six LS1 coils directly onto the
plugs. To make this work I had to fabricate custom
"coil-to-plug connectors". I wasn't sure they would work,
but they worked out great. It keeps the coils off the firewall, and
cleans up the wiring a bit. Although they do make it a bit more
difficult to change plugs, I feel it is a worthwhile tradeoff.
So, now to correct some minor stuff and continue building the
plane.
Mark S.
20B -- Running in the airframe!!!
P.S. Our local EAA just purchased a new set of computerized
scales. I will try to borrow them and weigh the FWF installation
soon.
At 09:27 PM 9/15/2003 -0700, you wrote:
It consists of an all-thread, and a 1" thick plate with a hole that
slips over the all-thread. Hope this helps,
Ah-h-h-h; what s an
all-thread ?
20B - First run of rebuilt engine 9/14/03 ! ! !
Great news!! So-o-o;
how d it go??
Al
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