Return-Path: Sender: (Marvin Kaye) To: flyrotary Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 21:00:16 -0400 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from [128.83.126.136] (HELO mail.utexas.edu) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.1.3) with ESMTP-TLS id 2581294 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Tue, 16 Sep 2003 09:19:57 -0400 Received: (qmail 20738 invoked from network); 16 Sep 2003 13:19:51 -0000 Received: from dhcp-191-101.per.utexas.edu (HELO benefits3.mail.utexas.edu) (146.6.191.101) by wb2.mail.utexas.edu with SMTP; 16 Sep 2003 13:19:51 -0000 X-Original-Message-Id: <5.1.1.5.2.20030916071621.0112aeb8@localhost> X-Sender: msteitle@mail.utexas.edu@localhost X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Version 5.1.1 X-Original-Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 08:19:44 -0500 X-Original-To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" From: Mark Steitle Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: 20B In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="=====================_285400187==.ALT" --=====================_285400187==.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed All thread is a rod/bar that is threaded from end to end. I believe All-thread is a trade name for threaded rod. In this case my friend (Bob Darrah, to give proper credit for a brilliantly simple solution to this problem) used a scrap piece of All-thread (approx. 18" long) that was laying around the shop. The o.d. was too large to use as is, so he turned down one end (approx 2 inches) and re-threaded it with the appropriate metric thread for screwing into the small e-shaft. If you have ever used a long bar to move a heavy object, this works on the same principle. I can post a picture, but you would have to wait for my next trip to Bob's place (about 50 mi. round trip). ********************************************* Now for the exciting stuff... Yyyyyeeeeeesssss! On 9/15/03 Bob Darrah and I did a first start on my rebuilt 20B in my Lancair ES project. My project is very similar to Tom Parks' Turbo 20B Lancair ES, but w/o the turbo. We had some issues to deal with, mainly electrical. Since I couldn't find a current draw number for the LS1 coils I guessed at 5a for the 3 leading coils, and 5a for the 3 trailing. After it refused to start, we started checking for possible problems. Fuel pumps were functioning, so we had fuel. One injector was stuck open, flooding that cylinder. Luckily, I had bought a set of 8 new 43# injectors. So, I replaced the bad injector. Still wouldn't start. We continued to check for what might be amiss. The timing had been set statically and was close (well, close enough. More on this later.). We had compression. We checked for spark, but there was no spark. So, we re-checked the wiring of the 6 coils. They were wired according to Tracy's instructions. We checked to see if we had 12v at the coils, but there was none. Ahah. We were on to something now! Check for voltage at the coil switches and it was dead. Next we checked the ESS Buss fuses. The culprit was that we had blown both 5a fuses. OK, that's easy, just replace them with 7.5a fuses. Try again to start the engine. The engine tried to start, then back to the same story (no fire). Check the 7.5a fuses, they were both blown. That's strange. OK, replace them with 10a fuses. Engine starts briefly, then quits and refuses to restart. Check plugs... all wet. Clean plugs and try again... nothing. Check the 10a fuses... both blown!!! This is getting annoying. OK, replace the two 10a fuses with two 15a fuses. (Side note... the coils were wired with 16 guage wire, so I wasn't worried about starting an electrical fire.) Try again... NOW IT RUNS!!! But it dies whenever I turn off the cold start switch. ;-( Run it some more, try again... still dies. Later on I figured out what was happening. I have the turbo version of the EC2. The turbo's engines run 550cc injectors. Since I decided not to turbo-charge, I switched to smaller 43lb/450cc injectors. So, it dawned on me that I need to increase the duty-cycle on all my injectors to account for the difference in fuel flow. So, time to go back and re-read Tracy's instructions. Side note: After the dust/smoke had cleared and the big grin had left my face, I sat down and re-read Tracy's instructions. It says to set the timing initially to 35 degrees, and then later it will be set with a timing light to 20 degrees. I had misread part of the instructions and made my initial setting at 20 degrees. Not that it prevented it from starting, but it was one more detail that I had missed. It starts a little easier when set to 35 degrees. ***The big story here is the muffler. This is a N/A 20B. The exhaust is 2" SS from the ports past the first 90 degree bend and then it changes to a 3" SS pipe the remainder of the way. I was hoping to get away from hanging a heavy, boxy Spin-tech muffler on the bottom of the fuse. I searched the web and found an auger shaped baffle design and decided to build one and try it. Its made of SS, about 20" long and fits into the last 2 ft. of the exhaust system. Even though I didn't take any readings, the exhaust, while not whisper quiet, was very tolerable. For comparison we ran it once without the baffle. What a difference. Quick, put it back in before the neighbors call the cops! So, if it holds up under WOT operations, I'll be very happy. The baffle weighs about 1 lb. (see attachment). Another success story... I mounted the six LS1 coils directly onto the plugs. To make this work I had to fabricate custom "coil-to-plug connectors". I wasn't sure they would work, but they worked out great. It keeps the coils off the firewall, and cleans up the wiring a bit. Although they do make it a bit more difficult to change plugs, I feel it is a worthwhile tradeoff. So, now to correct some minor stuff and continue building the plane. Mark S. 20B -- Running in the airframe!!! P.S. Our local EAA just purchased a new set of computerized scales. I will try to borrow them and weigh the FWF installation soon. At 09:27 PM 9/15/2003 -0700, you wrote: > It consists of an all-thread, and a 1" thick plate with a hole that > slips over the all-thread. Hope this helps, > > >Ah-h-h-h; what s an all-thread ? > > > > >20B - First run of rebuilt engine 9/14/03 ! ! ! > > > >Great news!! So-o-o; how d it go?? > > >Al --=====================_285400187==.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable All thread is a rod/bar that is threaded from end to end.  I believe All-thread is a trade name for threaded rod.  In this case my friend (Bob Darrah, to give proper credit for a brilliantly simple solution to this problem) used a scrap piece of All-thread (approx. 18" long) that was laying around the shop.   The o.d. was too large to use as is, so he turned down one end (approx 2 inches) and re-threaded it with the appropriate metric thread for screwing into the small e-shaft.  If you have ever used a long bar to move a heavy object, this works on the same principle.  I can post a picture, but you would have to wait for my next trip to Bob's place (about 50 mi. round trip). 

*********************************************
Now for the exciting stuff... Yyyyyeeeeeesssss!  On 9/15/03 Bob Darrah and I did a first start on my rebuilt 20B in my Lancair ES project.  My project is very similar to Tom Parks' Turbo 20B Lancair ES, but w/o the turbo.  We had some issues to deal with, mainly electrical.  Since I couldn't find a current draw number for the LS1 coils I guessed at 5a for the 3 leading coils, and 5a for the 3 trailing.  After it refused to start, we started checking for possible problems.  Fuel pumps were functioning, so we had fuel.  One injector was stuck open, flooding that cylinder.  Luckily, I had bought a set of 8 new 43# injectors.  So, I replaced the bad injector.  Still wouldn't start.  We continued to check for what might be amiss.  The timing had been set statically and was close (well, close enough.  More on this later.).  We had compression.  We checked for spark, but there was no spark.  So, we re-checked the wiring of the 6 coils.  They were wired according to Tracy's instructions.  We checked to see if we had 12v at the coils, but there was none.  Ahah.  We were on to something now!  Check for voltage at the coil switches and it was dead.  Next we checked the ESS Buss fuses.  The culprit was that we had blown both 5a fuses.  OK, that's easy, just replace them with 7.5a fuses.  Try again to start the engine.  The engine tried to start, then back to the same story (no fire).  Check the 7.5a fuses, they were both blown.  That's strange.  OK, replace them with 10a fuses.  Engine starts briefly, then quits and refuses to restart.  Check plugs... all wet.  Clean plugs and try again... nothing.  Check the 10a fuses... both blown!!!  This is getting annoying.  OK, replace the two 10a fuses with two 15a fuses.  (Side note... the coils were wired with 16 guage wire, so I wasn't worried about starting an electrical fire.)  Try again... NOW IT RUNS!!! 

But it dies whenever I turn off the cold start switch.  ;-(   Run it some more, try again... still dies.  Later on I figured out what was happening.  I have the turbo version of the EC2.  The turbo's engines run 550cc injectors.  Since I decided not to turbo-charge, I switched to smaller 43lb/450cc injectors.  So, it dawned on me that I need to increase the duty-cycle on all my injectors to account for the difference in fuel flow.  So, time to go back and re-read Tracy's instructions. 
 
Side note:  After the dust/smoke had cleared and the big grin had left my face, I sat down and re-read Tracy's instructions.  It says to set the timing initially to 35 degrees, and then later it will be set with a timing light to 20 degrees.  I had misread part of the instructions and made my initial setting at 20 degrees.  Not that it prevented it from starting, but it was one more detail that I had missed.  It starts a little easier when set to 35 degrees.

***The big story here is the muffler.  This is a N/A 20B.  The exhaust is 2" SS from the ports past the first 90 degree bend and then it changes to a 3" SS pipe the remainder of the way.  I was hoping to get away from hanging a heavy, boxy Spin-tech muffler on the bottom of the fuse.  I searched the web and found an auger shaped baffle design and decided to build one and try it.  Its made of SS, about 20" long and fits into the last 2 ft. of the exhaust system.  Even though I didn't take any readings, the exhaust, while not whisper quiet, was very tolerable.  For comparison we ran it once without the baffle.  What a difference.  Quick, put it back in before the neighbors call the cops!  So, if it holds up under WOT operations, I'll be very happy.  The baffle weighs about 1 lb.  (see attachment).

Another success story... I mounted the six LS1 coils directly onto the plugs.  To make this work I had to fabricate custom "coil-to-plug connectors".  I wasn't sure they would work, but they worked out great.  It keeps the coils off the firewall, and cleans up the wiring a bit.  Although they do make it a bit more difficult to change plugs, I feel it is a worthwhile tradeoff. 

So, now to correct some minor stuff and continue building the plane.

Mark S.
20B -- Running in the airframe!!! 


P.S.  Our local EAA just purchased a new set of computerized scales.  I will try to borrow them and weigh the FWF installation soon.

 

At 09:27 PM 9/15/2003 -0700, you wrote:

  It consists of an all-thread, and a 1" thick plate with a hole that slips over the all-thread.  Hope this helps,
 

Ah-h-h-h; what s an all-thread ?

 


20B - First run of rebuilt engine 9/14/03 ! ! ! 

 

Great news!!  So-o-o; how d it go??


Al --=====================_285400187==.ALT--