Mailing List flyrotary@lancaironline.net Message #30431
From: Tracy Hallock <thallock@austin.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Fire Detector Unit
Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 21:29:18 -0600
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Chad,
Yep, my link was wrong, and yours is the one that I thought I inserted
(need to look closer next time).  Also, if someone is not comfortable
with experimenting, then I think it makes sense to go with the product
that Dave found.  It is complete, and proven to work.  On the other
hand, if you like to experiment, then the $72 board looks like something
interesting to play with.  Of course, my experience has been that the
cost of completing a product from pieces usually exceeds the cost of
the already complete package.  Some of us just like the experimentation
part.

Thanks,
Tracy.


----- Original Message ----- From: "Chad Robinson" <crj@lucubration.com>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 6:04 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Fire Detector Unit


Tracy Hallock wrote:

After seeing Mark's demonstration, I was pretty impressed, so I did a search on the internet for similar products.  The link below looked promising:
 http://www.georgejenson.com/rv7.php
 They include a board and the detector for $72.  Unfortunately, I am too far off from needing this yet, but someone else might like to experiment.

Tracy, did you mean to include this link as opposed to the one above?
http://www.acroname.com/robotics/parts/R67-UVTRON.html

This is a good way to go if you're serious about using this detector. It runs on 10-30VDC, and you can get a project box from Radio Shack for a few bucks that will fit it.

Note that if you want to use this, you will need some way to indicate its output. A good way would be a 12V relay, light, and buzzer, also from Radio Shack. You'd hook the relay to "output pin 3 - Open Collector Output", and use it to drive the indicator light (or LED) and the buzzer. Make sure the coil rating of the relay you get doesn't exceed 100mA at 12V (coil resistance 120 ohms max).

Finally, the output of this thing is a very short pulse. The spec sheet for the driver circuit says you can add a capacitor at a spot on the circuit board. Again, Radio Shack sells capacitors. A 1uF value across the Cx terminals will make the output pulse for 1 second at a time. Don't forget to jumper the "background cancel level" terminals, too. Looks like you'd want to use position 3 - they label this "general use". You can experiment with a different slot if it's falsely triggering.

Sounds like a lot of hookup work, but you could probably do it (minus wiring and installing it) in 20 minutes. I'm just trying to be detailed. =)


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