Received-SPF: pass
 receiver=logan.com; client-ip=24.93.47.43; envelope-from=thallock@austin.rr.com
Message-ID: <00a901c63a84$d3c401d0$6501a8c0@tracy>
From: "Tracy Hallock" <thallock@austin.rr.com>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
References: <list-997733@logan.com>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Fire Detector Unit
Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 21:29:18 -0600
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	format=flowed;
	charset="iso-8859-1";
	reply-type=response
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Chad,
Yep, my link was wrong, and yours is the one that I thought I inserted
(need to look closer next time).  Also, if someone is not comfortable
with experimenting, then I think it makes sense to go with the product
that Dave found.  It is complete, and proven to work.  On the other
hand, if you like to experiment, then the $72 board looks like something
interesting to play with.  Of course, my experience has been that the
cost of completing a product from pieces usually exceeds the cost of
the already complete package.  Some of us just like the experimentation
part.

Thanks,
Tracy.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chad Robinson" <crj@lucubration.com>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 6:04 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Fire Detector Unit


> Tracy Hallock wrote:
>>
>> After seeing Mark's demonstration, I was pretty impressed, so I did a 
>> search on the internet for similar products.  The link below looked 
>> promising:
>>  http://www.georgejenson.com/rv7.php
>>  They include a board and the detector for $72.  Unfortunately, I am too 
>> far off from needing this yet, but someone else might like to experiment.
>
> Tracy, did you mean to include this link as opposed to the one above?
> http://www.acroname.com/robotics/parts/R67-UVTRON.html
>
> This is a good way to go if you're serious about using this detector. It 
> runs on 10-30VDC, and you can get a project box from Radio Shack for a few 
> bucks that will fit it.
>
> Note that if you want to use this, you will need some way to indicate its 
> output. A good way would be a 12V relay, light, and buzzer, also from 
> Radio Shack. You'd hook the relay to "output pin 3 - Open Collector 
> Output", and use it to drive the indicator light (or LED) and the buzzer. 
> Make sure the coil rating of the relay you get doesn't exceed 100mA at 12V 
> (coil resistance 120 ohms max).
>
> Finally, the output of this thing is a very short pulse. The spec sheet 
> for the driver circuit says you can add a capacitor at a spot on the 
> circuit board. Again, Radio Shack sells capacitors. A 1uF value across the 
> Cx terminals will make the output pulse for 1 second at a time. Don't 
> forget to jumper the "background cancel level" terminals, too. Looks like 
> you'd want to use position 3 - they label this "general use". You can 
> experiment with a different slot if it's falsely triggering.
>
> Sounds like a lot of hookup work, but you could probably do it (minus 
> wiring and installing it) in 20 minutes. I'm just trying to be detailed. 
> =)
>
>
> --
> Homepage:  http://www.flyrotary.com/
> Archive and UnSub:   http://mail.lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/