I can’t help with the RV/tractor
question – my plane is propelled from the proper end J.
Foam for molding from the lumber yard –
if you’re using epoxy without solvents then the pink Styrofoam/styrene
has worked well for me (not the white Styrofoam it crumbles when sanded).
Get 2” thick sheet, cut smaller blocks and glue together in a staggered
fashion in the rough contour of your cowl. Sand off all the corners and
shape with 40grit sand paper.
2-part pour foam is pretty good to work
with for mold making too. But DON’T bother with the spray foam insulation
(one brand is “Right Stuff”). It is rubbery and doesn’t
sand worth beans.
The 2-part pour foam can be used in
conjunction with the Styrofoam to glue the sheets together and fill voids and
cracks and build back up places where you over-sand.
Here are a bunch of pictures from building
my cowls: http://www.maddyhome.com/canardpages/pages/JoeHull/Chap23Cowl.htm
Regards,
Joe Hull
Cozy Mk-IV #991 (preping for DAR inspection
- details, details)
Redmond (Seattle),
Washington
From: Rotary motors in
aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On
Behalf Of John Downing
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005
12:17 PM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Cowl Exit
Looking back thru my notes, I seen a posting that Buly's
plane needed 126 inch of outlet air to make the cooling system work. Is
this amount necessary for tractor installations? At present I have an
opening 4 - 1/4" x 11 - 1/4", with the exhaust to exit short of the
opening to help siphon out the cowling heat. I really don't want to get
everything buttoned up and find out it isn't going to cool. What are you
fellows using on your RV's. Thankyou in advance. JohnD
I need to get some foam for remolding the cowl, what can I get at the lumber
yard that will sand and work well?