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WALTER B KERR wrote:
Finally got around to getting the 13B installed back in the 9A. Lots of excuses why have not got it back in earlier since since Bruce Turrentine went through it to see why the cranking compression was so low. He found blow by on the side seals , but could not explain why. It now feels much more like others when you swing the prop through.
It did not start right up like I hoped now that it has better low rpm compression. Pulled plugs from both rotors and both were wet. I noticed that when leak checking the fuel system before cranking that the fuel pressure immediately went back to zero. Suspicioned that an injector was leaking but ruled that out since both rotor's plugs were wet after trying to crank.
Checked the rate of fuel pressure decay after shutting the fuel pump off both with the injectors on and disabled. No real noticeable change.
Any suggestions??
My memory is correct that the fuel pressure stayed up a relatively long time on shutting the pump off before I had the engine out isn't it??
Bernie, maybe I'm too old fashioned to get all this electrical stuff to work :>(
What does Tracy's controller do to fuel control if you continue to run the starter with no spark? If it continues to supply fuel & there's no spark, eventually it will be flooded. Try looking for spark (with the pumps off to prevent further flooding).
Can you unhook & plug the fuel line at the fuel rail to see if you still get instant loss of pressure? I wouldn't completely write off the possibility of more than one injector sticking down there in sunny salty wet Florida if they've been sitting up for a couple of months.
In the 2nd gen. cars the technique for starting after flooding is to squirt some auto. trans. fluid in the spark plug holes to restore compression, remove power from the pump & crank for 'a while' to pump the excess gas out. Not really that different from a/c engine technique to recover from flooding.
Charlie
(Y'all continue to find all the failure modes while I'm building.)
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