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Thanks Jerry for the information. Yes, I
guess I saw the photos with the hole saw and drew the incorrect conclusion
{:>). I know I need to get this engine back together, but that should
be done by the end of this coming weekend provided I get all the parts I
need.
But, at some point I want to experiment on those
housings. Then if it turns out OK, I happened to have an 87 turbo block
sitting in my shop and two sets of good NA rotor housings as well as these turbo
housings I won't be using again. What better to build up a PP
engine. I have my old Ross gear box (true the gears are galled but then
I'm not going to fly it) and when I get my prop back from Bernie all I need to
do is build a test stand - done that once in Virginia and threw away the test
stand as I would never need it again {:<(.
Sigh! so many projects and so little time
Thanks again
Ed
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, April 17, 2005 8:37
PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Apex Seal Groove
Wear and Air Filters was Re: [FlyRotary]...
Hi Ed, I did not use a hole saw. I did find a picture of
someone doing it with a hole saw and posted it. Maybe that is what you are
thinking of. You could drill the initial hole with a hole saw and then finish
off with a boring bar. In my case we (a machinist friend and I ) made the
throttle bodies first and then bored the holes to a push fit. It would be a
good idea to practice on a junk housing. You will need a heavy angle plate to
clamp the housing to. Just use a slow feed. It is so easy confidence grows
quickly. Gluing in the inserts is no big deal either. A couple of grooves were
cut in the inserts so the epoxy would have a mechanical lock. If you go for
the interference fit, you will not have to worry about epoxy leaking through
into the housing.
Timing: we set the timing by finding the center line
of the housing and then measuring from it to the center of the hole. This is
easy to do in the mill with digital read outs. The hole is parallel to a line
through the center of the housing and not perpendicular to the housing. I did
it this way so that 180 degree sweeps could be used. By the way, you can buy
1.75 o.d./1.625 i.d. steel "combo bends" from the Chassis Shop
www.chassishop.com for $16.00. Two of them will do your entire intake. If you
want to do aluminum, you are on your own as I never found exactly what I was
looking for. Ed Klepeis made the bell mouths and they are perfect. Jerry
On Sunday, April 17, 2005, at 06:22 PM, Ed Anderson
wrote:
Hey, Jerry
I
now have two turbo rotor housings that I feel free to try some PP
stuff. I understand that you cut the hole with a hole saw. Did
you then clean it up with a boring bar or something similar or just ram the
aluminum tube down the hole {:>)? Any prep to the hole other than
removing debris before putting the tube in it? I have your dimensions
but will await your reports on results before cutting.
Ed
A
----- Original Message
-----
From: Jerry
Hey
To: Rotary
motors in aircraft
Sent: Sunday, April 17, 2005 6:47
PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Apex Seal Groove Wear and Air Filters
was Re: [FlyRotary]...
Thomas, my set up will not produce 250 hp
because I have the 2:17 drive. However, I still do have some hp to play
with. I could sacrifice 10 hp and still leave the airport vertically. Power
Sport claims 215 hp without ram air so I should do somewhat better than
that. I will consider your suggestions tomorrow when I have the engine in
front of me, but at first glance they look good. Some kind of double plenum
will be required, the first one supplied by ram air and housing the air
filter and the second plenum feeding the bell mouths.
Jerry
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