Return-Path: Received: from mtiwmhc13.worldnet.att.net ([204.127.131.117] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.3c3) with ESMTP id 880030 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Sat, 16 Apr 2005 00:31:18 -0400 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=204.127.131.117; envelope-from=keltro@att.net Received: from 204.127.135.76 ([204.127.135.76]) by worldnet.att.net (mtiwmhc13) with SMTP id <20050416043040113002llrae>; Sat, 16 Apr 2005 04:30:46 +0000 Received: from [209.247.222.107] by 204.127.135.76; Sat, 16 Apr 2005 04:30:40 +0000 From: keltro@att.net (Kelly Troyer) To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" Subject: "Lynn's Sca" was V shape Apex Seal Slots Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2005 04:30:40 +0000 Message-Id: <041620050430.7991.426094EE00040CF300001F372161243646019D9B040A05@att.net> X-Mailer: AT&T Message Center Version 1 (Feb 14 2005) X-Authenticated-Sender: a2VsdHJvQGF0dC5uZXQ= MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_7991_1113625840_0" --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_7991_1113625840_0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Lynn, A rough sketch would help my minds eye visualize all the parts of such a scale !! The pivot point for the bar is not clear to me.... Thanks -- Kelly Troyer Dyke Delta/13B/RD1C/EC2 -------------- Original message from Lehanover@aol.com: -------------- > In a message dated 04/15/2005 10:26 Central Daylight Time, keltro@att.net > writes: > > << Someone correct me if I am wrong.......Different codes > can be used together if not more than two codes apart.......The idea is to > maintain > rotor weights for balancing within factory tolerances.......Lynn keep me > honest here! > -- > Kelly Troyer > Dyke Delta/13B/RD1C/EC2 >> > > > It all sounds good to me. The Japs are anal about a lot of things, and > getting the engine smoother than any piston engine was way high on the list. It > has > a built in rocking couple problem, and a built in torque amplitude problem. So > the counter weights take out the rocking couple, and the 40 pound flywheel > evens out the torque pulses. Presto, smoother than any piston engine. > > So, if you have two good rotors and they have different weights, what to do? > > Build one hell of a sensitive scale. Then use your drill press to remove tiny > amounts of steel from the heavy rotor, until both are the same weight. Use > the counterweights from the lighter rotor's engine. > > The scale can be anything stiff. Like a 2X4 or pieces of square tubing or > round tubing, maybe 6 feet long. The pivot is to be two sharpened bolts through > the (whatever) bar. Then two bent up hangers. Cut two steel 3/8" rods the same > length to start with. Sharpen one end to a fine point, and bend that end into > a 180 with a radius big enough to clear the end of the bar. The other end can > be just a hook to grab the rotor through an oil opening, or a real nice flat > 90 to sit in the bearing hole. > > If your bar is wood nail a scrap of steel plate to each end in exactly the > same place. > Put a punch mark on one plate or on one end of the square stock close to the > end. Make the hangers just long enough so that a rotor on each one will just > clear the floor, or bench. > > With just the hangers, hang one on where your punch mark is installed. Hang > the other in a location that just balances the scale. Reverse the hangers to be > sure they weigh the same. Grind off as required. Mark the location of the > second hanger, and make a punch mark for that one. The punch make is to make a > location that can be found every time, so make just a mark, don't beat a big > depression. The sharp points and hard surfaces generate a near zero friction > pivot point. > > Support the pivot bolt ends on a flat plate between jack stands, or cement > blocks, whatever. > Hang any two rotors. Dump pennies or (If its close) paper clips to balance. > Then reverse the hangers with the rotors left on them to be sure the answer is > the same. > Drill a bit (use a drill stop) from the corner area (look where the factory > did it) and reweigh. After two passes, drill a set on the opposite side of the > rotor. > > If you think it through, you can build a scale that can "see" a paper clip. > And that is close enough. You will notice that the fans must be off, and the > doors closed. > > Lynn E. Hanover > > >> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ > >> Archive: http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_7991_1113625840_0 Content-Type: text/html Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
Lynn,
  A rough sketch would help my minds eye visualize all the parts
of such a scale !! The pivot point for the bar is not clear to me....
 
Thanks
--
Kelly Troyer
Dyke Delta/13B/RD1C/EC2




-------------- Original message from Lehanover@aol.com: --------------


> In a message dated 04/15/2005 10:26 Central Daylight Time, keltro@att.net
> writes:
>
> << Someone correct me if I am wrong.......Different codes
> can be used together if not more than two codes apart.......The idea is to
> maintain
> rotor weights for balancing within factory tolerances.......Lynn keep me
> honest here!
> --
> Kelly Troyer
> Dyke Delta/13B/RD1C/EC2 >>
>
>
> It all sounds good to me. The Japs are anal about a lot of things, and
> getting the engine smoother than any piston engine was way high on the list. It
> has
> a built in rocking couple problem, and a built in torque amplitude problem. So
> the counter weights take out the rocking couple, and the 40 pound flywheel
> evens out the torque pulses. Presto, smoother than any piston engine.
>
> So, if you have two good rotors and they have different weights, what to do?
>
> Build one hell of a sensitive scale. Then use your drill press to remove tiny
> amounts of steel from the heavy rotor, until both are the same weight. Use
> the counterweights from the lighter rotor's engine.
>
> The scale can be anything stiff. Like a 2X4 or pieces of square tubing or
> round tubing, maybe 6 feet long. The pivot is to be two sharpened bolts through
> the (whatever) bar. Then two bent up hangers. Cut two steel 3/8" rods the same
> length to start with. Sharpen one end to a fine point, and bend that end into
> a 180 with a radius big enough to clear the end of the bar. The other end can
> be just a hook to grab the rotor through an oil opening, or a real nice flat
> 90 to sit in the bearing hole.
>
> If your bar is wood nail a scrap of steel plate to each end in exactly the
> same place.
> Put a punch mark on one plate or on one end of the square stock close to the
> end. Make the hangers just long enough so that a rotor on each one will just
> clear the floor, or bench.
>
> With just the hangers, hang one on where your punch mark is installed. Hang
> the other in a location that just balances the scale. Reverse the hangers to be
> sure they weigh the same. Grind off as required. Mark the location of the
> second hanger, and make a punch mark for that one. The punch make is to make a
> location that can be found every time, so make just a mark, don't beat a big
> depression. The sharp points and hard surfaces generate a near zero friction
> pivot point.
>
> Support the pivot bolt ends on a flat plate between jack stands, or cement
> blocks, whatever.
> Hang any two rotors. Dump pennies or (If its close) paper clips to balance.
> Then reverse the hangers with the rotors left on them to be sure the answer is
> the same.
> Drill a bit (use a drill stop) from the corner area (look where the factory
> did it) and reweigh. After two passes, drill a set on the opposite side of the
> rotor.
>
> If you think it through, you can build a scale that can "see" a paper clip.
> And that is close enough. You will notice that the fans must be off, and the
> doors closed.
>
> Lynn E. Hanover
>
> >> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/
> >> Archive: http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html
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