Mailing List flyrotary@lancaironline.net Message #18299
From: kevin lane <n3773@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: hand router milling
Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2005 22:06:54 -0800
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
I have a 20B with a 13B oil pan, so the front portion has no oil pan under it.  there are areas that are dead weight, so I routed out 3/8ths of the 1/2" of 6061 plate there.  I'll get a pic for you.  I cut away as much as I could inside the pan since it serves very little for strength.
Kevin Lane  Portland, OR
e-mail-> n3773@comcast.net
web-> http://home.comcast.net/~n3773
(browse w/ internet explorer)
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 5:47 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: hand router milling

HI! Kevin
What material did you use? How much did you have to remove inside?
Thanks
 
 
Georges & Gail Boucher
2126 Creighton Valley Road
Lumby, British Columbia
Canada  V0E 2G1
Phone:(250) 547-6434
Fax:: (250-547-2342
-------Original Message-------
 
Date: 03/02/05 17:38:15
Subject: [FlyRotary] hand router milling
 
a regular carbide bit for wood cuts well.  the secret is to get the larger
diameter bit , otherwise they constantly clog up.  I believe I used one that
cut like 1" dia.  The 1/2" bits for like mortising hinges won't work.  Also,
cut in the direction that the bit wants to travel and it is easier to take a
small amount with each pass.  For the wells that I routered, I cut them down
to the full depth, but remained maybe 1/8 to 1/4" inside my lines.  Then I
worked to the finish cut line at full depth.   WEAR GLASSES!  What? Huh? Oh
yes, and ear protection!  I machined the 1/2" plate to shape on the outside
similarly after cutting it close first with a bandsaw with like a 6
tooth/inch blade.  The engine mount plate took a good chunk of a Saturday to
make, but they run $500 to buy.  The plate ran $75.  I used the oil pan as a
template for the bolt holes.  My first engine mount plate I made these wood
templates, which was a bunch of work and not that necessary.  We're building
1 airplane, right? (no, you couldn't afford me to make you one too! :-)  I
did use a mill to cut the engine mount pockets.  We had started to use the
mill to make all of the plate and decided I could do it by hand much faster.
Kevin Lane  Portland, OR
(browse w/ internet explorer)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Ford" <jackoford@theofficenet.com>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 2:24 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: 20B exhaust (so far)
 
 
> Hey Kevin,
>
> What kind of bit are you using in that router? How deep can you cut
> (Aluninum, I assume)?
>
> Sounds like a poor man's end mill.
>
> Jack Ford
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "kevin lane" <n3773@comcast.net>
> To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 1:56 PM
> Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: 20B exhaust (so far)
>
>
>> Todd - my first engine mounting plate had the exhaust even closer.  I
>> bite
>> the bullet and fabricated another one which moved the block forward 3/4",
>> which also solved a water pump/fire wall clearance problem and the
>> starter
>> nose clearance too. I am getting pretty good at freehanding a router to
>> machine the plates.  I even have pockets up front routered out for weight
>> savings, all done free hand (just go 1/16th" at a time, and keep your
> mouth
>> closed! chips go everywhere).
>>     Thanks for the info.  I have some welding curtain material I use for
>> protection which seems to work well.  I wrapped my Lycoming starter in it
>> since a cross over pipe comes close.
>> Kevin Lane  Portland, OR
>> e-mail-> n3773@comcast.net
>> (browse w/ internet explorer)
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Bartrim, Todd" <Steve.Bartrim@canfor.com>
>> To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
>> Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 11:58 AM
>> Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: 20B exhaust (so far)
>>
>>
>> Hi Kevin;
>> My exhaust didn't work out exactly as I'd envisioned it and as a
>> result the pipe is almost touching 2 of my mount struts where it passes
>> between them. I was quite concerned about heat damaging the mount, so I
>> kept a very close eye on this area. However it really hasn't been an
>> issue. The paint on the mount hasn't discoloured at all so I haven't
>> been too concerned, however I still check it often. When I first
>> received the EM2, I attached one of my spare CHT thermocouples to the
>> mount to monitor it and while I can't recall the temp, I know it was low
>> enough that I stopped worrying about it. I should've logged it.
>>
>> Todd
>>
>>
>>
>> this is a good point and I admit to have not thought it through yet.  I
>> have made two engine mount plates so far because the first one had the
>> exhaust almost touching the exhaust, maybe 1/8" clearance.  I will have
>> to come up with some type of shield however.  I hope, also, to introduce
>> some fresh air flow over them also.
>> Kevin Lane  Portland, OR
>>
>> >
>> > I'm curious if you're planning some kind of heat shield for that mount
>>
>> > strut that runs between the exhaust pipes... or maybe several layers
>> of
>> > exhaust tape... something to keep some of that heat away anyhow?
>> Looks
>> > scary to me, especially when you consider that those exhaust tubes
>> will
>> > likely be glowing red at full throttle.  Just a thought.
>> >
>> >  <Marv>
>>
>>
>> >>  Homepage:  http://www.flyrotary.com/
>>
>>
>> >>  Homepage:  http://www.flyrotary.com/
>>
>
>
>>>  Homepage:  http://www.flyrotary.com/
 
 
>>  Homepage:  http://www.flyrotary.com/
 
 
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