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I think my first priority is to remove my headers and weld shut the crack I just spotted there yesterday and then fix the fuel drip near the carbs - but the weather is so nice I'd rather be flying.
I don't think the headers get real (white) hot until above 5,000 RPM. Just a guess based on the fact that my first exhaust system (short straight headers directly into muffler) muffler didn't crack open and evaporated the .016 alu screen between muffler and engine until I started testing RPMs above 5,000 or so.
I like my clear fuel lines! Recently replaced them too. Doesn't rubber burn?
Finn
jbker@juno.com wrote:
1. Finn made a safety suggestion that I incorporated :>) If you've never seen Finn's RV3 that has 500 miraculous hours on it, you probably will not appreciate this. Now Finn that I've changed the aluminum shield between the exhaust header and the fuel line, I think you should consider getting rid of those lawnmower fuel lines you have in front of the FW! I measured the temperature there with the cowling and some 3-4000 RPM burst while breaking-in the brake pads , the temperature by the fuel line was never threatening. Finn's comment about a cracked exhaust header burning the AL convinced me to change to SS.
2. I never thought you would see a Tracy intake snorkle on any plane I ever built. Well, after seeing 15 degree temp rise in my 4.5 inch diameter 3 foot long engine air intake line, decided to get rid of it. In addition, the exhaust manifold cracking thing was too close to this F/G and it could start a very nasty fire. Hope to have the snorkle installed this weekend and ready for the new injector when it arrives next week.
What's next??
Bernie
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