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At 01:39 AM 5/28/2003 -0400, you wrote:
I ended
up using a Parker SS bulkhead fitting through the wall of the oil pan,
forward of the level sensor & 1/2" from the top of oil pan.
After much procrastinating and trying to find an easier way, I finally
removed the bottom left engine mount, oil pan, installed the fitting,
remounted the pan & mount all in less than an hour
Unfortunately, it would take a lot
more than an hour for mine. I d have to pull the engine to get the
oil pan off. I actually have plenty of return opportunities via the
front cover. As I mentioned in my reply to Mike s message, I just
don t see a problem returning the redrive oil to the oil pan bolt hole
though.
If you just return to the normal port at the
bottom of the engine, then you must still connect those 2 ports with the
pipe plugs in them. If you don't your engine will get no oil.
I find this hard to believe.
Bruce spent a good bit of time telling me what port to connect to
what. I just can t believe that he would leave out such an
important detail that would destroy the engine. If he had meant for
me to use those ports, he would have left them open, rather than sealing
them shut. I ll certainly check with him to be sure though.
You know, while at first thought, it seems a
good idea the way that Bruce has machined off the oil pad, it now seems
to me that it is better left on to allow mounting of a bypass plate where
it is easy to tap off oil for other uses.
I agree with this. If I had
known more about it, I would have told Bruce to leave the pad.
Heck, with the butt ugly cowl I m growing now, I might have been able to
fit the oil filter in there.
Cheers,
Rusty
PS- I got my new Miller Dynasty 200 DX
welder, but I haven t even opened the box. As much as I want to
play with it, I just don t have time to try to learn how to weld at the
moment.
Rusty,
Someone once said, "when all you have is a hammer, the whole world
looks like a nail." So, my advice is... learn to weld.
The world will look a lot different.
Mark S.
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