I ended up using a Parker SS bulkhead fitting through the
wall of the oil pan, forward of the level sensor & 1/2" from the top
of oil pan. After much procrastinating and trying to find an easier way, I
finally removed the bottom left engine mount, oil pan, installed the
fitting, remounted the pan & mount all in less than an hour
Unfortunately, it would take a lot more
than an hour for mine. I’d have to pull the engine to get the oil
pan off. I actually have plenty of return opportunities via the front
cover. As I mentioned in my reply to Mike’s message, I just don’t
see a problem returning the redrive oil to the oil pan bolt hole though.
If you just return to the normal port at the bottom of the
engine, then you must still connect those 2 ports with the pipe plugs in them.
If you don't your engine will get no oil.
I find this hard to believe. Bruce
spent a good bit of time telling me what port to connect to what. I just
can’t believe that he would leave out such an important detail that would
destroy the engine. If he had meant for me to use those ports, he would
have left them open, rather than sealing them shut. I’ll certainly
check with him to be sure though.
You
know, while at first thought, it seems a good idea the way that Bruce has
machined off the oil pad, it now seems to me that it is better left on to allow
mounting of a bypass plate where it is easy to tap off oil for other uses.
I agree with this. If I had known more about it, I
would have told Bruce to leave the pad. Heck, with the butt ugly cowl I’m
growing now, I might have been able to fit the oil filter in there.
Cheers,
Rusty
PS- I got my new Miller Dynasty 200 DX
welder, but I haven’t even opened the box. As much as I want to
play with it, I just don’t have time to try to learn how to weld at the
moment.