Return-Path: Received: from imo-d05.mx.aol.com ([205.188.157.37] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.2.8) with ESMTP id 601205 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Sun, 09 Jan 2005 23:42:48 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=205.188.157.37; envelope-from=Lehanover@aol.com Received: from Lehanover@aol.com by imo-d05.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v37_r3.8.) id q.e5.a47ed58 (4362) for ; Sun, 9 Jan 2005 23:42:24 -0500 (EST) From: Lehanover@aol.com Message-ID: Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2005 23:42:24 EST Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Oil .... To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 138 In a message dated 1/9/2005 6:29:21 PM Central Standard Time, canarder@frontiernet.net writes: << Lynn, <... Redline straight 40 Wt ...> Do you know of any racers who use synthetic oil? Is there a compelling (or even somewhat convincing) reason to use or NOT to use synthetic oils in our applications? I figger racing is as close as I'll get to my agenda ... Jim S. I was not very clear about that. Redline is synthetic. The 2 cycle top oil as well. If you are running a different top oil from that in the sump I would use synthetic in the sump to get the higher film strength. If you run the stock metering pump, I would use a straight weight nonsynthetic racing oil in the sump for a bit cleaner burning. Richard Sohns gizmo is ideal for this situation. A full synthetic in the sump and a 2 cycle oil in a small bottle on the fire wall. Lynn E. Hanover