Return-Path: Received: from imo-r14.mail.aol.com ([152.163.225.68]) by ns1.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-64832U3500L350S0V35) with ESMTP id com for ; Fri, 10 Nov 2000 17:59:59 -0500 Received: from RWolf99@aol.com by imo-r14.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v28.32.) id k.64.83d48c1 (24895) for ; Fri, 10 Nov 2000 18:07:17 -0500 (EST) From: RWolf99@aol.com Message-ID: <64.83d48c1.273dd9a5@aol.com> Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 18:07:17 EST Subject: Canopy Strikers, Again To: lancair.list@olsusa.com X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Reply-To: lancair.list@olsusa.com Mime-Version: 1.0 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> Sorry to dwell so long on LNC2 canopy strikers, but the problem is built into the kit, so it's worth a few posts. Upon reflection, I decided that going glass-to-glass in the area of the striker plates would kluge up that area a little too much, since it's real close to the edges all around. Plus it would look dorky and be lots more work. My final resolution is to put a 1/4 inch thick aluminum spacer between the aluminum striker plate and the delrin striker. This shifts the delrin aft enough for the latches to engage and keeps the screws in single shear, rather than bending which is what washers would have done. I'll bolt the striker plate to the forward face of the canopy rollover, and put flox where the bolt holes are so I'm not crunching down on honeycomb. This means counterboring the bolt holes since I can't get a core removal tool down in there any other way. Sorry, Mark, your solution (glass-to-glass) is probably stronger, but I think this will be strong enough. - Rob Wolf >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> LML website: http://www.olsusa.com/Users/Mkaye/maillist.html LML Builders' Bookstore: http://www.buildersbooks.com/lancair Please send your photos and drawings to marvkaye@olsusa.com. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>