I'm not a true TruTrak expert, but here is an explanation that might add something to the discussion: The TruTrak servos are "stepper motors," distinctly different in operation from the servo motors used in other autopilots. The armature is essentially a collection of permanent magnets and the stator creates a magnetic field that attracts the magnets. This field is the "stepped" around the armature by energizing different coils in succession, and the armature follows in phase with these steps. That's why the stick can be observed to move in distinct steps, presumably small enough to avoid it being obvious. Instead of providing a slip clutch to allow the pilot to overcome the servo (on other autopilots, you do routinely test the clutch by overpowering the autopilot don't you? You don't?
You should) TruTrak limited the torque capacity of the motor and this can be programmed. Set the autopilot and then overcome it by moving the stick - you can feel it "pop" loose and then grab again. Set the torque capacity so that the force to overcome is significant, but not so much that you would have trouble flying the plane that way, at least until you can reach over and shut off the power to the A/P.
In flight, the servo produces a distinct characteristic if it is overloaded and slips. Sort like walking uphill on ice - it progressively moves in the commanded direction until the opposing force is too high. When the motor slips out of synchronization it loses it ability to produce torque (and slides downhill). Then when the force
drops sufficiently it gets back into step and tries again. It pushes and trips, pushes and trips; a characteristic not at all like simple "hunting," which is smooth and proportional in both directions. If, set at the highest torque, it still is overloaded in normal maneuvers, you need a higher torque servo. However, in roll you have no clue as to the force imparted by the trim, and the plane will fly just fine in an out-of-trim condition - the servo doesn't care how much torque it takes to move until it is more than its capability. If it won't bank or level off you might want to first check to make sure it isn't out of trim before blaming the servo.
Finally, the shear pin: It is there to protect against the possibility of a mechanically locked servo motor. Note that, unlike the "others," the TruTrak servo is never disconnected. The controller simply turns off power you when hand-flying and you simply back-drive the servo motor. If the motor physically jams and won't turn (like from a broken tooth in the gear-train) the fix is to apply enough force with the stick to shear the pin. The pin was never intended to shear in any other circumstance. So if your pin shears without a jammed servo, something is amiss and needs to be fixed. Replacing it with a stronger pin isn't what I would recommend, as you may not be able to shear it if you have to. A jammed control that can't be overcome is THE worst-case scenario.
For what it's worth
Gary Casey
Todd, et.al.,
I have had
lots of servo issues with my IV, but solved them with =
settings and a screw - explanation below.
The "micro activity" setting is key for getting rid of the hunting in =
the roll axis (in my airplane). With the torque set at its maximum =
(255) for both roll and pitch, and the "activity" for each set at around =
6-7, its a very good balance between being harsh and hunting all of the =
time. I recently had a servo refurbished and when the install was =
complete all of these settings were off, and I had to adjust them back. =
But when the mechanic reset everything, he also changed the micro =
activity setting to either zero or the max (can't remember). It hunted =
in roll very annoyingly, and I thought it was FUBAR. Adjusting this =
along with the torque got me back into the happy place. =20
As for the screw - there is a shear pin that is designed to break if the =
torque on the
servo is too high, presumably to not let the autopilot =
over control or fight emergency pilot input. The bad news is that this =
pin was not designed for the high loads in a IV. I have broken this pin =
several times in both roll and pitch, just by letting the autopilot fly =
an approach. The fix was a great idea by my mechanic to replace this =
shear pin with a steel screw, essentially locking the servo to the =
controls. I deem this safe because there are still 4 other ways to =
disable the autopilot (stick button, control head power, on/off switch =
on the panel, and circuit breaker). I wanted to throw that out for =
others who might be having this same problem since we are on the =
subject.
Hope this helps
Bob R