lml@lancaironline.net Mailing List Archive

I too have the cable door release. One of the best things I did on the plane. I tried several oil doors( original cowl material, carbon, glass, balsa) and found they all deformed. So I deep six'd the thin door and used 1/4 prepreg for the door. This is much stiffer material. I used micro on the underside rim area of the cowl to make the cowl as thick as the door. This keeps the cowl from deforming around the rim. A little light body filler on the top to make it match the cowl surface and it came out nice. All of this needs to be done to keep the shape right and stiff. The cable I used is the same as the push rods used in RC airplanes. It has a yellow tube with a gold steel cable. I made a latch out of aluminum with a slot that is slightly angled so when the tongue inserts into the slot on the door, it gets tighter as the latch fully engages. I had a small stainless knob spun that goes on the operator end of the latch. It appears as a little button on the side of the air intake on the cowl. Everyone asks what it is for, when you pull it, the spring loaded door flops open.. Everyone chuckles when it opens... nice touch..

Attached are a few pictures. In the picture is the thin carbon door which I did not keep. I also changed how the hinge connects to the door. My door now rises above the cowl when opened and is spring loaded as well . (sorry no pics of that). The latch is basically the same.

Anyway, since I finished the plane, the door has given me no trouble at all and has worked marvelously...

If anyone else is interested, I will take a few pictures of the finished set up and post them.....

Best,
Randy Snarr

N694RS

Lancair 235/320

"Flight by machines heavier than air is unpractical and insignificant, if not utterly impossible"
-Simon Newcomb, 1902

From: paul miller <paul@tbm700.com>
To: lml@lancaironline.net
Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 6:43 AM
Subject: [LML] Re: Oil Door

Let me add something: If you add a cable release to the oil door--make sure it does not infringe on the baffle area when installed on the inside of the cowl. Mine does and the baffling is interupted by the cable installation which allows air to leak through the top of the cowl. Doesn't sound like a lot but it make a big difference in cylinder cooling. Paul, N357V.
On 2011-10-15, at 12:55 PM, Steve Colwell wrote:

> Bill and Angier,
>
> I have the cable release door but I have heard of what sounds like a better
> method. The oil door is on two wire rails that allow it to slide down and
> under the cowl. The benefit is the door seals tighter with cowl pressure in
> lieu of bulging (my door is about 8 bid of carbon and it still bulges,
> probably from the hidden hinge bending under pressure). Maybe someone with
> the wire rail style will post photos so you can compare. It might solve a
> cowl/engine clearance issue too.
>
> Steve Colwell Legacy
>
> Angier
>
> Have you considered the internal release for the oil door with the cable
> running on the inside of the upper cowl accessible thru the inlet? I have
> my cowling off right now if you need a photo.
>
> BTW, I had the oil door open in flight once, so I changed the orientation in
> line with relative wind
>
> Regards, Bill Hogarty
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Oct 13, 2011, at 4:53 PM, "Greenbacks, UnLtd." <N4ZQ@VERIZON.NET> wrote:
>
>> Aircraft Spruce offers a 4002 series cad plated steel wide area grommet
> part # 4002-N3.
>> I'm looking for the identical critter, but in stainless and this is a
> special order part # 4002-N3S.
>> I need 2 and their minimum order is for 15 at $4.35 each.
>> My application is for securing the upper cowl oil door. So, is there any
> chance that one of you knows of a source where these grommets
>> can be purchased individually? Here's a look at the install.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Angier Ames
>> N4ZQ
>>
>> <DSC_0043_2.jpg>
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