X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Sender: To: lml@lancaironline.net Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2011 10:31:58 -0500 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from imr-db01.mx.aol.com ([205.188.91.95] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.4c2a) with ESMTP id 4831256 for lml@lancaironline.net; Sun, 30 Jan 2011 02:06:31 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=205.188.91.95; envelope-from=Sky2high@aol.com Received: from imo-ma04.mx.aol.com (imo-ma04.mx.aol.com [64.12.78.139]) by imr-db01.mx.aol.com (8.14.1/8.14.1) with ESMTP id p0U75oIR007905 for ; Sun, 30 Jan 2011 02:05:50 -0500 Received: from Sky2high@aol.com by imo-ma04.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v42.9.) id q.e67.ff2162a (44630) for ; Sun, 30 Jan 2011 02:05:48 -0500 (EST) Received: from magic-m21.mail.aol.com (magic-m21.mail.aol.com [172.20.22.194]) by cia-mc01.mx.aol.com (v129.8) with ESMTP id MAILCIAMC013-ae564d450dc5215; Sun, 30 Jan 2011 02:05:41 -0500 From: Sky2high@aol.com X-Original-Message-ID: X-Original-Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2011 02:05:41 EST Subject: Re: [LML] Oil Door Latches and Rivets X-Original-To: lml@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_aab17.2ba8190.3a7667c5_boundary" X-Mailer: AOL 9.5 sub 5400 X-AOL-IP: 24.15.17.119 X-Spam-Flag:NO X-AOL-SENDER: Sky2high@aol.com --part1_aab17.2ba8190.3a7667c5_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Rob, You can use flush rivets and set them with a squeezer or the German made parallel jaw pliers. The trick to keep the rivet heads from showing through the paint is to put a layer of glass over the door - You can use fine fiber glass cloth obtained from a hobby shop. Didn't you have to rivet the hinge on? Grayhawk In a message dated 1/29/2011 10:36:52 P.M. Central Standard Time, rwolf99@aol.com writes: I'm using a standard Hartwell latch for my oil door -- just like a Wichita spam can. My question is whether to attach it to the door with rivets or screws. If I use screws, I can replace it easily and it's easier to paint. If I use rivets (which would have to be 5/32 rivets due to the hole size in the latch) then it's harder to replace, but you can't see the fasteners. My wife says to use rivets, since I told her that I'd probably never have to replace the latch, but if so, I could drill out the rivets and then use "those shiny stainless screws". For those of you using these latches -- what have y'all done? FYI, I'm using a gooseneck hinge from an RV (Vans), so the actual hinge is not visible. Just the latch is visible. I'm not interested in using one of those elegant hidden actuators that some of you have, although they definitely look nice. Next question -- since I'm not a sheet metal guy and know nothing about rivets, would I use soft rivets to attach the latch and also the hinge, or would I have to use hard rivets. Normally I'm using the soft rivets for nutplates. Thanks, guys! - Rob Wolf --part1_aab17.2ba8190.3a7667c5_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Rob,

You can use flush rivets and set them with a squeezer or the German= made=20 parallel jaw pliers. The trick to keep the rivet heads from showing= =20 through the paint is to put a layer of glass over the door - You can use= fine=20 fiber glass cloth obtained from a hobby shop.

Didn't you have to rivet the hinge on?

Grayhawk

In a message dated 1/29/2011 10:36:52 P.M. Central Standard Time,=20 rwolf99@aol.com writes:

I'm using a standard Hartwell latch for my oil door -- just like a= =20 Wichita spam can. My question is whether to attach it to the door= with=20 rivets or screws. If I use screws, I can replace it easily and it'= s=20 easier to paint. If I use rivets (which would have to be 5/32 rive= ts due=20 to the hole size in the latch) then it's harder to replace, but you can'= t see=20 the fasteners.

My wife says to use rivets, since I told her that I'd probably neve= r have=20 to replace the latch, but if so, I could drill out the rivets and then= use=20 "those shiny stainless screws".

For those of you using these latches -- what have y'all done?

FYI, I'm using a gooseneck hinge from an RV (Vans), so the actual= hinge=20 is not visible. Just the latch is visible. I'm not intereste= d in=20 using one of those elegant hidden actuators that some of you have, altho= ugh=20 they definitely look nice.

Next question -- since I'm not a sheet metal guy and know nothing= about=20 rivets, would I use soft rivets to attach the latch and also the hinge,= or=20 would I have to use hard rivets. Normally I'm using the soft rivet= s for=20 nutplates.

Thanks, guys!

- Rob=20 Wolf

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