X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Sender: To: lml@lancaironline.net Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 09:49:40 -0500 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from imo-m20.mx.aol.com ([64.12.137.1] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.2c4) with ESMTP id 2646920 for lml@lancaironline.net; Tue, 15 Jan 2008 17:09:44 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=64.12.137.1; envelope-from=Sky2high@aol.com Received: from Sky2high@aol.com by imo-m20.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v38_r9.3.) id q.d6b.19bdc13c (42807) for ; Tue, 15 Jan 2008 17:09:02 -0500 (EST) From: Sky2high@aol.com X-Original-Message-ID: X-Original-Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 17:09:01 EST Subject: Re: [LML] Gap seals X-Original-To: lml@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="-----------------------------1200434941" X-Mailer: Unknown sub 34 X-Spam-Flag: NO -------------------------------1200434941 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bill and Sue, My gap seals are self-adhesive curved Mylar strips covered with a thin "safety" tape overlapping the leading edge and the airfoil upon which the seal is stuck. They are applied on all sides of control surface gaps. They were designed for 100 Kt sailplanes. They work. 1. The aileron/flap seals were probably only needed on the bottom (earthward) surfaces. 2. The glue, both seal and tape, is of variable "stickiness. That is, if it sticks, it really sticks and removal can lift paint or clear coat. If it doesn't stick, one must ensure that it is adhering in those places where it has started to lift before each flight. The lifting forces are exacerbated by the curve in the Mylar. 3. Some of the seals are covering hinge screw heads where I need to remove the hinge - bummer. 4. The safety tape must be carefully applied in "windy" locations or it will weaken and tear - a condition that may lead to separation of the seal. You shouldn't have these problems with internal seals. Here are some considerations for a IV (besides much higher speeds) 1. Almost all of your control surfaces have rounded leading edges and center hinges. This means internal seals, such as wipers affixed to the spar or skin aft of the spar could be effective (look at an old Skymaster). For example, a "C" channel affixed there with a "T" shaped wiper held by the C. 2. Because the flaps (Fowler) actually separate from the wing skin, a weather strip type seal might work - sealing when the flaps are completely retracted and no tape to rattle around off the TE when the flaps are extended. 3. I don't see any maintenance issues for hidden seals. Good Luck. Scott In a message dated 1/15/2008 3:40:08 P.M. Central Standard Time, 5zq@cox.net writes: Scott wrote: "Gap seals are high maintenance items unless they are built-in during construction." Hey Scott, I'd like to build gap seals in the IV. What would you do to build them in? What are the "high maintenance" tasks that they require? Thanks. **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 -------------------------------1200434941 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
 =20
Bill and Sue,
 
My gap seals are self-adhesive curved Mylar strips covered with a=20= thin=20 "safety" tape overlapping the leading edge and the airfoil upon which the se= al=20 is stuck.  They are applied on all sides of control surface=20 gaps.  They were designed for 100 Kt sailplanes.  They work.
 
1. The aileron/flap seals were probably only needed on the bottom=20 (earthward) surfaces.
2. The glue, both seal and tape, is of variable "stickiness.  That= is,=20 if it sticks, it really sticks and removal can lift paint or clear coat.&nbs= p;If=20 it doesn't stick, one must ensure that it is adhering in those places where=20= it=20 has started to lift before each flight.  The lifting forces are exacerb= ated=20 by the curve in the Mylar.
3. Some of the seals are covering hinge screw heads where I need to rem= ove=20 the hinge - bummer. 
4. The safety tape must be carefully applied in "windy" locations or it= =20 will weaken and tear - a condition that may lead to separation of the=20 seal.
 
You shouldn't have these problems with internal seals.  Here are s= ome=20 considerations for a IV (besides much higher speeds)
 
1. Almost all of your control surfaces have rounded leading edges and=20 center hinges.  This means internal seals, such as wipers affixed to th= e=20 spar or skin aft of the spar could be effective (look at an old=20 Skymaster).  For example, a "C" channel affixed there with a=20= "T"=20 shaped wiper held by the C.
 
2. Because the flaps (Fowler) actually separate from the wing skin, a=20 weather strip type seal might work - sealing when the flaps are completely=20  retracted and no tape to rattle around off the TE when the flaps are=20 extended.
 
3. I don't see any maintenance issues for hidden seals.
 
Good Luck.
 
Scott
 
In a message dated 1/15/2008 3:40:08 P.M. Central Standard Time,=20 5zq@cox.net writes:
<= FONT=20 style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size= =3D2>
Scott wrote: "Gap seals are high maintenance items unless they a= re=20 built-in during construction."
 
 
Hey Scott, I'd like to build gap seals in the IV. What would you= do=20 to build them in? What are the "high maintenance" tasks that they require?= =20 Thanks.



Start the year off right. Easy wa= ys to stay in shape in the new year.
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