Return-Path: Received: from mail.mc.net ([209.172.128.4]) by truman.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.5.1 release 219 ID# 0-52269U2500L250S0V35) with SMTP id com for ; Thu, 14 Oct 1999 10:49:30 -0400 Received: (qmail 19223 invoked from network); 14 Oct 1999 14:58:14 -0000 Received: from chi-ras-5-209-112-95-20.mc.net (HELO mc.net) (209.112.95.20) by mail.mc.net with SMTP; 14 Oct 1999 14:58:14 -0000 Message-ID: <3805EEB1.624180A1@mc.net> Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 09:54:41 -0500 From: jerry@mc.net To: "Rumburg, William" , "lancair.list" Subject: Re: LNC2 SB050-0999 References: X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Mime-Version: 1.0 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> To: William Rumburg and the rest of the LML gang. Hi Bill....here is a question for you regarding your opinion on your "fix" quoted below. "I still maintain that a full-width secondary attach point is far preferable to this "fix". Breaking out an existing attach block is no picnic either, but if you have to go in and do it, you may as well do it right." When you say full-width do you mean this......a full-width piece of phenolic applied ONLY TO the trailing edge of the BOTTOM cap of the spar? If this is so what would be the length what would be the height, how thick, how many bids, would it go all the way to the main mount phenolic and tied-in there? Lots of questions here I know. Here's a helpful thought, maybe......because it is so difficult to work with the 4 nuts, washers and bolts for the main gear pivot bearing bracket/mount consider this, Bill. (I have not done this but may). Rivet 4 nut plates on an aluminum sheet metal piece so the nuts center on the 4 mounting holes. Then place this on the front side of the phenolic main mount. Install the bolts from the gear well side, making sure the threaded ends don't rub on the push rods. Would there be enough clearance with the push rods/bolt ends? The benefits are obvious especially when removal is done months after flying. Boeing does a similar thing for the hundreds of bolts holding the windshields in. Please let us hear comments from you, Bill, and from everyone else, as well. Jerry Grimmonpre' LNC2 [I was going to suggest the mounting of nutplates to a card (either 6-BID or .050 AL) which could be Hysol'ed onto the front side of the GM4 main attach area as well, but you beat me to the punch! The use of drilled- head fasteners and safety wire would insure their integrity and would really simplify the GM4 installation and removal process. I may just go ahead and do this when I remove my gear to apply the subject SB. I think it's a great idea. I don't think that there will be any clearance issues at all, as the ultimate depth of the fasteners shouldn't change a bit. ] >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> LML website: http://www.olsusa.com/Users/Mkaye/maillist.html