Posted for "Dominic V. Crain" <domcrain@pacific.net.au>:

 Scott,
 
 Thanks for the advice which is great.
 
 It is exactly what I chose to do, in terms of ordering the complete assembly
 and a seal kit.
 
 I want to get it up and running by the end of the coming week, so it was the
 way to go.
 
 And your detail on the removal and repair is very much appreciated.
 
 I intend to do that at leisure and place the current actuator on the spares
 shelf.
 
 Thank again,
 
 Dom
 
 

"""
 Consider this strategy.  Buy both a new actuator and a seal kit.  Quickly
 replace the old cylinder with the new and go fly.  At your leisure, replace
 the seals in the old (even if only for the learning experience) and keep it
 on your "quick fix" shelf along with tubes, tires, main actuator seal kit
 and other handy items.
 
 The door actuators are simpler in construction than the gear actuators and
 do not require the removal of the pipe-threaded fittings for disassembly.
 Also, there is a hole thru the actuator shaft so you can put a pin through
 it to hold the shaft (and spring) while you loosen the rod end locking nut -
 just remember how many turns to remove the rod end.  Note also that the
 floating tube on the shaft is the up stop.  Circlip pliers will be required
 to remove retaining clip. Remember the orientation of the seals, especially
 the shaft seal.
 
 Why should you get a new one and at least disassemble the old?  To check
 that the failure is not from "cocking" the actuator and scoring the cylinder
 walls - something that new seals may only temporarily resolve.
"""