|
|
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
<< Lancair Builders' Mail List >>
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>
Marv -
Installing or changing tires is something I'm sure most builders/flyers
dread. So much so, that a lot of tires get worn down too far. Yet, I've
found changing tires to be EASY, if you just have the proper tools and
technique. I don't mind doing it at all now (I can hear it ... "OK, Bill,
since you find changing tires to be so easy, I've got a couple that I'd like
you to change!").
First, you need a good, sturdy and easy-to-use jackstand (as the airplane
construction advances, you will learn what a necessary tool this is!). The
"A" frame type that George Stevenson designed and published in the LNN about
four years ago is best. I had a local machine shop build mine and they did
an outstanding job. I estimate that it should have cost $ 300., but they
only charged me $ 75. Two inexpensive "floor jacks" are used for the actual
lifting, then the jackstand lifting rods are pinned, once the desired height
is reached. To secure the plane's tail down, make an 80 lb. weight using a 5
gallon plastic bucket as follows: Fill the bucket with concrete mix, drop a
large stainless eyebolt (with an area washer and nut) in the center and pour
in sufficient water. How's that!
Now, you can easily and safely jack the plane up and remove the main gear
wheels. After bleeding the air and disassembling the wheel halves (takes
about three minutes), I've found they're easy to remove from the tire, with
a little careful prying using two wide blade screwdrivers.
If your innertubes are more than three or four years old, it wouldn't
hurt to install new ones, they're only $ 8. each from Lancair. Talc the
inside of the new tire generously and install the uninflated tube. Then,
partially inflate and properly position it so the stem seats in the wheel
halve with the index. Now, here's the trick...inflate the tube so that the
inner walls are stiff. Then, carefully smear thick, gooey silicone on the
inner walls where the rim halves will contact. Be careful not to get it on
the tire bead surface. Also, smear a little on the wheel halves themselves,
being careful not to get it on the bead. Use the thick, gooey silicone sold
for tire dressing. With the tube partially inflated and the innertube walls
stiff and smeared with silicone, the wheel halves will slide across without
pinching. This will, however, make the two halves a little difficult to
bring together in order to start the three bolts. For the main gear wheels,
this is no problem. Simply lay the wheel on a flat surface. You will find
that by using your weight and pressing with your knees (or a thin stick
across the center of the wheel) you can bring the two halves together enough
to start the nuts. This works for the mains because the bolts are captured
in one of the wheel halves. That isn't true for the nose gear. For it, you
can cut some small (1" x 1") pieces of wood to hold the three bolts in place
while you do the same reassembly as for the main gear wheels.
Write me directly for any specific questions.
Bill Rumburg
N403WR (Sonic bOOm)
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
LML homepage: http://www.olsusa.com/Users/Mkaye/maillist.html
|
|