Return-Path: Received: from [207.79.152.5] by truman.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.5.1 release 219 ID# 0-52269U2500L250S0V35) with SMTP id com for ; Thu, 24 Jun 1999 10:50:41 -0400 Received: from CDIM-PTS-MAIL by [207.79.152.5] via smtpd (for truman.olsusa.com [205.245.9.2]) with SMTP; 24 Jun 1999 14:53:42 UT Received: by CDIM-PTS-MAIL with Internet Mail Service (5.5.2232.9) id ; Thu, 24 Jun 1999 10:51:37 -0400 Message-ID: From: "Rumburg, William" To: "'lancair.list@olsusa.com'" Subject: Tire Installation on Lancair 320's Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 10:51:30 -0400 X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Mime-Version: 1.0 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> Marv - Installing or changing tires is something I'm sure most builders/flyers dread. So much so, that a lot of tires get worn down too far. Yet, I've found changing tires to be EASY, if you just have the proper tools and technique. I don't mind doing it at all now (I can hear it ... "OK, Bill, since you find changing tires to be so easy, I've got a couple that I'd like you to change!"). First, you need a good, sturdy and easy-to-use jackstand (as the airplane construction advances, you will learn what a necessary tool this is!). The "A" frame type that George Stevenson designed and published in the LNN about four years ago is best. I had a local machine shop build mine and they did an outstanding job. I estimate that it should have cost $ 300., but they only charged me $ 75. Two inexpensive "floor jacks" are used for the actual lifting, then the jackstand lifting rods are pinned, once the desired height is reached. To secure the plane's tail down, make an 80 lb. weight using a 5 gallon plastic bucket as follows: Fill the bucket with concrete mix, drop a large stainless eyebolt (with an area washer and nut) in the center and pour in sufficient water. How's that! Now, you can easily and safely jack the plane up and remove the main gear wheels. After bleeding the air and disassembling the wheel halves (takes about three minutes), I've found they're easy to remove from the tire, with a little careful prying using two wide blade screwdrivers. If your innertubes are more than three or four years old, it wouldn't hurt to install new ones, they're only $ 8. each from Lancair. Talc the inside of the new tire generously and install the uninflated tube. Then, partially inflate and properly position it so the stem seats in the wheel halve with the index. Now, here's the trick...inflate the tube so that the inner walls are stiff. Then, carefully smear thick, gooey silicone on the inner walls where the rim halves will contact. Be careful not to get it on the tire bead surface. Also, smear a little on the wheel halves themselves, being careful not to get it on the bead. Use the thick, gooey silicone sold for tire dressing. With the tube partially inflated and the innertube walls stiff and smeared with silicone, the wheel halves will slide across without pinching. This will, however, make the two halves a little difficult to bring together in order to start the three bolts. For the main gear wheels, this is no problem. Simply lay the wheel on a flat surface. You will find that by using your weight and pressing with your knees (or a thin stick across the center of the wheel) you can bring the two halves together enough to start the nuts. This works for the mains because the bolts are captured in one of the wheel halves. That isn't true for the nose gear. For it, you can cut some small (1" x 1") pieces of wood to hold the three bolts in place while you do the same reassembly as for the main gear wheels. Write me directly for any specific questions. Bill Rumburg N403WR (Sonic bOOm) >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> LML homepage: http://www.olsusa.com/Users/Mkaye/maillist.html