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Hi Peter
If you go to the nearest marine Chandlery you should be able to find polypropylene bead additive for non-skid. It is light weight and essentially transparent. The part about being plastic though that I like best is that if you ever have to remove it, you can sand through it without much trouble. Other types are not so nice. Like pumice non-skid, if you have to remove it, is like grinding rocks...well, technically it IS grinding rocks. Anyway, the stuff is from US Paint (Awlgrip manufacturer) and is #73237. Probably the best application mthod is to mask the area around the non-skided area. Mix your paint to whatever color and brand you have, then LIGHTLY spray a tack coat over the masked area. Then take the bead non-skid and DUMP enough of the 'skid to completely cover the area and "saturate" it so that loose beads are "floating" on top. You can then blow the excess off or let it harden and vacuum it. Spray another two coats at least and you are done. You may want to outline the area with a contrasting pin stripe but it will exactly match the color around it. I have even used this stuff for varnished steps and floorboards in my boats.
You can also mix it in your paint at 240 cc/qt of MIXED paint, i.e. once you have mixed the paint, reducer, accelerator, fish eye additive and cross linker. The amount isn't super critical but I found that the suggested amount of 1 oz/qt inadequate. This works well with a sponge roller but you need to apply three coats. And you must use the new, dry roller a bit to saturate the non-skid in the nap. A little uneveness isn't a big deal but you need to apply it as quickly as you can since the viscosity and volume change as the solvent evaporates causes changes in the non-skid. I found waiting a half hour between coats to be OK but longer is better and that is with a warm day. After all of the coats are done, let it dry and apply a top coat over the whole thing or maybe two coats. This will give a moderately bumpy but even non-skid that still has a gloss.
Dan
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