Return-Path: Sender: "Marvin Kaye" To: lml@lancaironline.net Date: Fri, 03 Dec 2004 11:20:10 -0500 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from imo-m27.mx.aol.com ([64.12.137.8] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.2.5) with ESMTP id 554812 for lml@lancaironline.net; Fri, 03 Dec 2004 10:27:16 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=64.12.137.8; envelope-from=Sky2high@aol.com Received: from Sky2high@aol.com by imo-m27.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v37_r3.8.) id q.9b.53f0bccc (2519) for ; Fri, 3 Dec 2004 10:26:39 -0500 (EST) From: Sky2high@aol.com X-Original-Message-ID: <9b.53f0bccc.2ee1dfae@aol.com> X-Original-Date: Fri, 3 Dec 2004 10:26:38 EST Subject: Re: [LML] Re: Cowl fasteners X-Original-To: lml@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="-----------------------------1102087598" X-Mailer: 9.0 Security Edition for Windows sub 1180 -------------------------------1102087598 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Gary, I used Stainless Steel 2700 Phillips Head Camlocs. However, if you choose them consider 1. My fiberglass cowl was flimsy so I added a 1.5 inch wide 1-BID of fiberglass around the inside edges of the cowl. Later, in some high stress areas I added another BID of carbon. If you cowl is of carbon fiber, I still would add 1 BID of carbon to strengthen the edges carrying the Camlocs or imbed dimpled washers (Tinnerman's?) in the exterior surface. 2. I spaced my Camlocs closer than was recommended, thus avoiding bulges between the Camlocs caused by escaping hot air. 3. Camlocs are spring loaded - thus, in high speed flight, my cowl shifts upward a bit. I still get bug spatters on the top forward vertical cowl face - right behind the prop spinner. 4. If I had to do it over again I would use hinge pins (pullable from the cockpit) on the straight sides and screws on the bottom cowl/fuselage joint, all for cowl for rigidity - Camlocs on the top for easy access. And certainly Phillips Heads to eliminate the "slipped screwdriver" scratches. 5. Hmmmmm... maybe a cooling plenum....... Scott Krueger AKA Grayhawk N92EX IO320 Aurora, IL (KARR) Some Assembly Required Using Common Hand Tools And Shiny Hardware -------------------------------1102087598 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Gary,

I used Stainless Steel 2700 Phillips Head Camlocs. However, if yo= u=20 choose them consider

1. My fiberglass cowl was flimsy so I added a 1.5 inch wide=20 1-BID of fiberglass around the inside edges of the cowl. Later, in som= e=20 high stress areas I added another BID of carbon. If you cowl is of car= bon=20 fiber, I still would add 1 BID of carbon to strengthen the edges carrying th= e=20 Camlocs or imbed dimpled washers (Tinnerman's?) in the exterior surface.

2. I spaced my Camlocs closer than was recommended, thus avoiding bulge= s=20 between the Camlocs caused by escaping hot air.

3. Camlocs are spring loaded - thus, in high speed flight, my cowl shif= ts=20 upward a bit. I still get bug spatters on the top forward vertica= l=20 cowl face - right behind the prop spinner.

4. If I had to do it over again I would use hinge pins (pullable from t= he=20 cockpit) on the straight sides and screws on the bottom cowl/fuselage joint,= all=20 for cowl for rigidity - Camlocs on the top for easy access. And=20 certainly Phillips Heads to eliminate the "slipped screwdriver"=20 scratches.

5. Hmmmmm... maybe a cooling plenum.......=20

Scott Krueger=20 AKA Grayhawk
N92EX IO320 Aurora, IL (KARR)

Some Assembly Required=20
Using Common Hand Tools

And Shiny Hardware

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