Return-Path: Received: from [65.33.165.125] (account marv@lancaironline.net) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro WebUser 4.2.5) with HTTP id 491630 for lml@lancaironline.net; Fri, 29 Oct 2004 21:29:47 -0400 From: "Marvin Kaye" Subject: Re: [LML] Hysoling Stainless Tinnermans onto Cowl To: lml X-Mailer: CommuniGate Pro WebUser Interface v.4.2.5 Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 21:29:47 -0400 Message-ID: In-Reply-To: <009e01c4bddb$63f62620$6401a8c0@OFFICE> References: <009e01c4bddb$63f62620$6401a8c0@OFFICE> X-Priority: 3 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"; format="flowed" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Posted for "Bill&Sue" <5zq@cox.net>: > With many removals and installations of the cowl, the mounting holes will be > chewed up and elongated over time. > Hysoling stainless tinnerman washers to the cowl after final fit (but prior > to painting) would prevent that. Has anyone ever tried it? The question is > whether Hysol will stick to the back of the washers. Would wirebrushing > stainless washers enhance the ability of Hysol to stick to them? > Yep Sonic, We did just that on our cowling. Roughing up the back side of the tinnermans with a sander helped. I can't imagine that the cowling would still function without them since the screws have been in and out hundreds of times. The body work was done after they were hysoled in, they don't show at all but still provide good structure for the machine screws. Bill Harrelson 5zq@cox.net N5ZQ 320 850+ hrs N6ZQ IV 0.004% [Pardon me for sticking in my 2c here, but if you want those tinnermans (or clik-bond nutplates, for that matter) to really hang in there, don't use Hysol or the Clik-bond glue... get yourself some JB-Weld and use that. I've found that it's adhesive strength when bonding metal parts to a composite substrate to be far superior using the same surface prep (sand/mc). I don't know why this is, but personal experience sure bears it out. Try it, I think you'll like it. ]