Return-Path: Sender: (Marvin Kaye) To: lml@lancaironline.net Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2004 22:35:53 -0400 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from mail.indian-creek.net ([209.176.40.9] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.2b2) with ESMTP id 3190213 for lml@lancaironline.net; Sun, 25 Apr 2004 19:57:41 -0400 Received: from pavilion (sl3.du.indian-creek.net [209.176.40.19] toucan@78055.com) by mail.indian-creek.net with SMTP (IOA-IPAD 4.01f/96) id 0H9GH00 for ; Sun, 25 Apr 2004 19:00:48 -0500 X-Original-Message-ID: <001101c42b21$590a9f40$1328b0d1@pavilion> From: "Jim Cameron" X-Original-To: "Lancair Mailing List" Subject: Final Installation of Legacy Wings & such X-Original-Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2004 18:58:39 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000A_01C42AF7.520403A0" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C42AF7.520403A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Having just completed the quick, easy final installation of my = Legacy wings, I thought I'd pass on a couple of items for fellow Legacy = builders. Fuel Supply Hose: The AN-8 braided stainless sheath fuel hose = supplied to connect the wing tank fitting to the bulkhead elbow on the = stub wing presents a couple of problems. If you leave the wings 5" or = 6" apart so you can attach and tighten the hose before pushing the wing = all the way in, look out! As you push the wing in the final few inches, = the hose has to twist a little. This type of hose does not like to = twist, however, and it will likely kink and crimp. It's easy not to see = this as you shove the wing home. The only solution is to leave it loose = enough so it can twist at one of the fittings, then tighten it when the = wing is in final position. Problem with that is that there isn't any room to get at it once the = wing is in place. Even if the cutouts in the stub wing bulkhead were = large enough to accommodate a wrench (which they're not), there isn't = enough clearance for the length of the 3/4" and 7/8" wrenches required = to hold the elbow and tighten the -8 nut. What I finally ended up doing was to buy a 7/8" box wrench and cut = about a 9/16" section out of it, making it sort of an open end that = would slip over the hose. I also cut the shank off to about 4" or 5" so = I'd have room to turn it. For holding the 3/4" flats on the elbow, I = also made a short-handled open-end wrench, and ground the jaws thinner = so I'd have room to get it onto the flats. That was fun! Anyway, check your fuel supply hoses to make sure = they haven't twisted and crimped. A snake light and a little dentist's = mirror may be helpful. (The smaller, longer fuel return hose seems not = to mind being twisted a little, so that one can be tightened down before = pushing the wings all the way together.) Rear Wing Bolts: These are the ones that go through the spherical = bearing, mating the two 1/4" aluminum plates on the rear spar. Getting = the bolt in is pretty easy. In order to get a washer, a castle nut, and = a cotter pin on the inside, however, will require the help of at least = one alien. You know, the ones with several long, skinny, flexible arms = with eyes on the end of each one. There's a nice fiberglass sort of = arch over the inside of the bolt, placed so that if you contort yourself = sufficiently, and somehow get a light up in there that you can burn your = arms on, you can almost see the end of the bolt. For this one, I used a = curved-jaw, 6" hemostat to get the washer hung over the bolt. This will = take several tries, and will tax your vocabulary. Save a few epithets, = however, . . . Now the nut. Well, a straight, 8" hemostat will clamp = on the grooves of the castle nut, and if you get the angle just right, = you can stick it up in there, feel around for it to seat over the end of = the bolt, and, if you're a skilled contortionist, simultaneously turn = the bolt, hoping that it will catch the first round of threads. A = helper would be nice for this one -- while you take periodic breaks to = retrieve the washer that fell off, and replace the nut that popped out = of the hemostat, your helper will have time to control his (or her) = gales of hysterical laughter. Once you finally get it started, a long, = slim box wrench will get in there to hold it. Budget an hour or two for = each bolt. Now, the cotter pin! Well, if you remembered to mark the bolt head = for the orientation of the drilled hole before you started (forgot that, = didn't you?), it's not too bad. There's a special place you can jam = your eyeball that will let you just see the nut. Get it turned to line = up with the hole it the bolt, and it's a piece of cake. Now, I can = assure you that I cut and bent that cotter pin to look exactly like the = diagram in the book -- short end turned down just so, and the long end = gracefully arcing over the top of the bolt. I never lie, either. . . . = . So bust me. Wing Attach Bolts: These are easy to line up. Just stick your = finger in the hole, have your helper wiggle the wing up and down, and = when the slices stop coming off the end of your finger, it's lined up. = What you won't find anywhere in the manual is that a -960 washer should = go under the head of each bolt, and probably a second one on the other = side. There are those lovely spacers that go on next, and one might = think they would be made to the right dimensions. Yeah. It's easy to = get those funky-looking lock nuts (what are they, anyway?) to feel tight = on the spacer, but not have the whole thing tight on the wing bushings. = With two washers, it doesn't look to me as if there are quite enough = threads sticking out the back side of the nut, but with only one, I = wasn't satisfied that the bolts were actually tight on the wing. And oh, yeah, I forgot to mention, you can't get any normal sort of = wrench on the outboard one. No room -- surprise! What worked for me = was several long extensions on a 1/2" drive socket, with a universal = joint at the socket. Shouldn't cost more that $30 or $40 bucks to get = these tightened up. I also found that a piece of 1/2" 5052 tubing = slipped over the allen wrench on the inside made it easier. You let the = allen wrench jam against the spar as you tighten the nuts, then you can = just bend the tubing a bit when you're done, which will make it easier = to extract the allen wrench. Attaching Ailerons: (OK, I know this isn't on the same subject, but = just so you don't start thinking things will get easy when you've got = the wings on . . . ) When you go to attach the aileron pushrod to the = aileron, you'll find that the bracket it connects to has been cleverly = designed to foil your every attempt. The vertical blades that the rod = end goes between are short, so that when the AN3- bolts are in place to = hold the bracket to the aileron spar, there isn't room to get a wrench = on the bolt that goes through the bracket blades and the rod end = bearing. Even the smallest, thinnest 3/8" socket I own will not go over = the bolt head, because it won't clear the attaching bolt heads. Nothing = fits over the nut, either. After much head scratching, I came up with two different solutions. = One is to remove the bracket, countersink the mounting holes, and = re-attach it with flathead 10-32 screws of the right length. (I = actually only thought of that one this morning, but it would only solve = half the problem.) The other is to use a phillips-head, 10-32x1" screw = instead of an AN3-10A bolt. With a long #2 phillips screwdriver, you = can get in the open (inboard) end of the aileron to get the screwdriver = into the screw head. There still isn't room for a wrench of any kind on = the nut however, so a real kludge was in order. I jammed a large, flat = screwdriver blade between the aileron skin and the flat on the nut, and = was able to keep it from turning enough to get the screw tight. Gee, = that was fun, too! Aileron Idler Arms: Another fun job! For this one, you get to = thread the two little wedgie spacers on each side of the rod end = bearing, up where you can't see and can't reach. What would we do = without wheel bearing grease? For a little extra fun, the second one = won't go on unless you spread the blades of the idler arm just a bit = with a screwdriver or wrench, or something. The first one of these = assemblies (bolt, spacer, rod end, spacer, washer, nut) took me 1 hr 27 = min. I guess I learned something from that, because I was able to get = the second one done in under an hour! You'll really need that little = mirror for this one, and you might want to put a smaller bulb in your = worklight so the burns on your arms heal faster. Heads-up on Flaps: When you put in the AN3- bolt that attaches the = flap pushrod to the inboard side of the flap, leave the little round = inspection cover off so you can make sure that at least one full thread = comes through the nut plate inside. The bolts called out in the = construction manual are too short, and mine were different one side to = the other. It will probably take an AN3-15A, -16A, or -17A, and these = are not in the hardware kit, so you have to order them. Having these = bolts work part way out during flight would be interesting, but I'll = pass on experiencing it personally. User-friendly is not a word I'd use for any of this stuff. I = wouldn't even call it bad design -- it's more like no design at all. = Like things just came out wherever, and so what if you can't access = anything for assembly, inspection, or servicing. An hour and a half to = assemble one bolt -- please! Unless I run into any more fun stuff like the above, I'm hoping this = thing will fly pretty soon. =20 Jim Cameron Legacy N121J ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C42AF7.520403A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
    Having just = completed the=20 quick, easy final installation of my Legacy wings, I thought I'd = pass on a=20 couple of items for fellow Legacy builders.
 
    Fuel Supply=20 Hose:  The AN-8 braided stainless sheath fuel hose supplied to = connect=20 the wing tank fitting to the bulkhead elbow on the stub wing presents a = couple=20 of problems.  If you leave the wings 5" or 6" apart so you can = attach and=20 tighten the hose before pushing the wing all the way in, look out!  = As you=20 push the wing in the final few inches, the hose has to twist a = little.  This type of hose does not like to twist, however, and it = will=20 likely kink and crimp.  It's easy not to see this as you shove the = wing=20 home.  The only solution is to leave it loose enough so it can = twist at one=20 of the fittings, then tighten it when the wing is in final=20 position.
    Problem with that = is that=20 there isn't any room to get at it once the wing is in place.  Even = if the=20 cutouts in the stub wing bulkhead were large enough to accommodate = a wrench=20 (which they're not), there isn't enough clearance for the length of the = 3/4" and=20 7/8" wrenches required to hold the elbow and tighten the -8 = nut.
    What I finally = ended up=20 doing was to buy a 7/8" box wrench and cut about a 9/16" section out of = it,=20 making it sort of an open end that would slip over the hose.  I = also cut=20 the shank off to about 4" or 5" so I'd have room to turn it.  For = holding=20 the 3/4" flats on the elbow, I also made a short-handled open-end = wrench, and=20 ground the jaws thinner so I'd have room to get it onto the = flats.
    That was = fun!  Anyway,=20 check your fuel supply hoses to make sure they haven't twisted and=20 crimped.  A snake light and a little dentist's mirror may be=20 helpful.  (The smaller, longer fuel return hose seems not to mind = being=20 twisted a little, so that one can be tightened down before pushing the = wings all=20 the way together.)
 
    Rear Wing=20 Bolts:  These are the ones that go through the spherical = bearing,=20 mating the two 1/4" aluminum plates on the rear spar.  Getting the = bolt in=20 is pretty easy.  In order to get a washer, a castle nut, and a = cotter pin=20 on the inside, however, will require the help of at least one=20 alien.  You know,  the ones with several long, skinny, = flexible arms=20 with eyes on the end of each one.  There's a nice fiberglass sort = of arch=20 over the inside of the bolt, placed so that if you contort yourself=20 sufficiently, and somehow get a light up in there that you can burn your = arms=20 on, you can almost see the end of the bolt.  For this one, I used a = curved-jaw, 6" hemostat to get the washer hung over the bolt.  This = will=20 take several tries, and will tax your vocabulary.  Save a few = epithets,=20 however, . . .  Now the nut.  Well, a straight, 8" hemostat = will clamp=20 on the grooves of the castle nut, and if you get the angle just right, = you can=20 stick it up in there, feel around for it to seat over the end of the = bolt, and,=20 if you're a skilled contortionist, simultaneously turn the bolt, hoping = that it=20 will catch the first round of threads.  A helper would be nice for = this one=20 -- while you take periodic breaks to retrieve the washer that fell off, = and=20 replace the nut that popped out of the hemostat, your helper will have = time to=20 control his (or her) gales of hysterical laughter.  Once you = finally get it=20 started, a long, slim box wrench will get in there to hold it.  = Budget an=20 hour or two for each bolt.
    Now, the cotter = pin! =20 Well, if you remembered to mark the bolt head for the orientation of the = drilled=20 hole before you started (forgot that, didn't you?), it's not too = bad. =20 There's a special place you can jam your eyeball that will let you just = see the=20 nut.  Get it turned to line up with the hole it the bolt, and it's = a piece=20 of cake.  Now, I can assure you that I cut and bent that cotter pin = to look=20 exactly like the diagram in the book -- short end turned down just so, = and the=20 long end gracefully arcing over the top of the bolt.  I never lie,=20 either.  . . . . So bust me.
 
    Wing Attach=20 Bolts:   These are easy to line up.  Just stick your = finger=20 in the hole, have your helper wiggle the wing up and down, and when the = slices=20 stop coming off the end of your finger, it's lined up.  What you = won't find=20 anywhere in the manual is that a -960 washer should go under the head of = each=20 bolt, and probably a second one on the other side.  There are those = lovely=20 spacers that go on next, and one might think they would be made to the = right=20 dimensions.  Yeah.  It's easy to get those funky-looking lock = nuts=20 (what are they, anyway?) to feel tight on the spacer, but not have the = whole=20 thing tight on the wing bushings.  With two washers, it doesn't = look to me=20 as if there are quite enough threads sticking out the back side of the = nut, but=20 with only one, I wasn't satisfied that the bolts were actually tight on = the=20 wing.
    And oh, yeah, I = forgot to=20 mention, you can't get any normal sort of wrench on the outboard = one.  No=20 room -- surprise!  What worked for me was several long extensions = on a 1/2"=20 drive socket, with a universal joint at the socket.  Shouldn't cost = more=20 that $30 or $40 bucks to get these tightened up.  I also found that = a piece=20 of 1/2" 5052 tubing slipped over the allen wrench on the inside made it=20 easier.  You let the allen wrench jam against the spar as you = tighten the=20 nuts, then you can just bend the tubing a bit when you're done, which = will make=20 it easier to extract the allen wrench.
 
    Attaching=20 Ailerons:  (OK, I know this isn't on the same subject, but just = so you=20 don't start thinking things will get easy when you've got the wings on . = . .=20 )  When you go to attach the aileron pushrod to the aileron, you'll = find=20 that the bracket it connects to has been cleverly designed to foil your = every=20 attempt.  The vertical blades that the rod end goes between are = short, so=20 that when the AN3- bolts are in place to hold the bracket to the aileron = spar,=20 there isn't room to get a wrench on the bolt that goes through the = bracket=20 blades and the rod end bearing.  Even the smallest, thinnest 3/8" = socket I=20 own will not go over the bolt head, because it won't clear the attaching = bolt=20 heads.  Nothing fits over the nut, either.
    After much head = scratching,=20 I came up with two different solutions.  One is to remove the = bracket,=20 countersink the mounting holes, and re-attach it with flathead 10-32 = screws of=20 the right length.  (I actually only thought of that one this = morning, but=20 it would only solve half the problem.)  The other is to use a=20 phillips-head, 10-32x1" screw instead of an AN3-10A bolt.  With a = long #2=20 phillips screwdriver, you can get in the open (inboard) end of the = aileron to=20 get the screwdriver into the screw head.  There still isn't room = for a=20 wrench of any kind on the nut however, so a real kludge was in = order.  I=20 jammed a large, flat screwdriver blade between the aileron skin and the = flat on=20 the nut, and was able to keep it from turning enough to get the screw=20 tight.  Gee, that was fun, too!
 
    Aileron Idler=20 Arms:  Another fun job!  For this one, you get to thread = the two=20 little wedgie spacers on each side of the rod end bearing, up where you = can't=20 see and can't reach.  What would we do without wheel bearing = grease? =20 For a little extra fun, the second one won't go on unless you spread the = blades=20 of the idler arm just a bit with a screwdriver or wrench, or = something. =20 The first one of these assemblies (bolt, spacer, rod end, spacer, = washer, nut)=20 took me 1 hr 27 min.  I guess I learned something from that, = because I was=20 able to get the second one done in under an hour!  You'll really = need that=20 little mirror for this one, and you might want to put a smaller bulb in = your=20 worklight so the burns on your arms heal faster.
 
    Heads-up on=20 Flaps:  When you put in the AN3- bolt that attaches the flap = pushrod to=20 the inboard side of the flap, leave the little round inspection cover = off so you=20 can make sure that at least one full thread comes through the nut plate=20 inside.  The bolts called out in the construction manual are too = short, and=20 mine were different one side to the other.  It will probably take = an=20 AN3-15A, -16A, or -17A, and these are not in the hardware kit, so you = have to=20 order them.  Having these bolts work part way out during flight = would be=20 interesting, but I'll pass on experiencing it personally.
 
    User-friendly is = not a word=20 I'd use for any of this stuff.  I wouldn't even call it bad design = -- it's=20 more like no design at all.  Like things just came out wherever, = and so=20 what if you can't access anything for assembly, inspection, or = servicing. =20 An hour and a half to assemble one bolt  -- please!
 
    Unless I run into = any more=20 fun stuff like the above, I'm hoping this thing will fly pretty = soon. =20
 
Jim Cameron
Legacy N121J
 
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