Message-ID: <36FD3B01.F2E8FEE9@mc.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 1999 14:09:37 -0600
From: jerry@mc.net
Reply-To: jerry@mc.net
To: lancair.list@olsusa.com
Subject: GM 15 Bearing Block
Mime-Version: 1.0

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Marv......

I realize it's called EXPERIMENTAL  but why does it seem we have to reinvent
the basics to make the basic design work?

We all know the design of the GM bearing block and their installation
procedures are causing some of the drag to free fall the nose gear.  From
what I read, it seems most of the bearing block problems are builder induced
by the snugging down the AN4-64A bolt/sleeve.   This bolt/sleeve arrangement
is designed to arrive at a near perfect squeeze of bearing blocks.  The
perfect squeeze is a hit/miss set-up,  dependent on the length of the
sleeve.  There has to be a better way than this hit/miss building concept.
I don't know if this could be the answer but I offer it for something to
think about.

It just seems that a rod, threaded both ends, would be a better arrangement
for this perfect squeeze requirement.  By using fiber lock nuts on the ends
of the rod and check nuts/washers to  the bearing blocks, the perfect
squeeze is only a 30 degree turn away with a wrench.

Comments please from anyone having done this.

Maybe the next possible step, in this search for a free pendulum swing of
the nose gear strut, is to find self centering ball bearings to replace the
swivel bushings.  I've looked in my bearing catalog and found nothing yet.
There are a few hopeful possibilities.   Somebody out there must have a
Berry Bearing catalog. It would be ideal if we could find a bearing which
would press fit into the original bearing block.

Once we get the nose gear drag link made of steel and the above problems
ironed out we won't need a 200 pound gorilla pushing on the strut.

Find the fun     Jerry Grimmonpre    L320