Return-Path: Sender: (Marvin Kaye) To: lml Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 21:17:56 -0400 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from turkey.mail.pas.earthlink.net ([207.217.120.126] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.1.3) with ESMTP id 2578361 for lml@lancaironline.net; Sat, 13 Sep 2003 15:35:01 -0400 Received: from sdn-ap-007watacop0201.dialsprint.net ([65.176.64.201] helo=f3g6s4) by turkey.mail.pas.earthlink.net with smtp (Exim 3.33 #1) id 19yGAd-0001HM-00 for lml@lancaironline.net; Sat, 13 Sep 2003 12:35:00 -0700 X-Original-Message-ID: <004b01c37a2d$ff42f100$c940b041@f3g6s4> Reply-To: "Dan Schaefer" From: "Dan Schaefer" X-Original-To: "Lancair list" Subject: Re: LNC2: sagging motor mounts X-Original-Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 12:34:05 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2800.1158 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1165 Nah! You're torqeing down on the steel sleeve that slips over the bolts inside the rubber donuts, not the rubber directly. When that's tight - steel washers on the outside of the rubber donuts against the steel sleeve, the rubber is compressed the required amount - bolt torque has little to do with it, unless you deform the sleeve. The mounts and bolts I used (don't know about others) required the use of a cotter pin so an exact torque is moot anyway since you need to align the castle nut slot with the hole in the bolt. Incidentally, if you're still in the building process, put a washer or two on the top engine mount bolts and then align the spinner and cowl. When the inevitable droop occurs, you can then remove washers as required to line things up again. Dan Schaefer