Return-Path: Sender: (Marvin Kaye) To: lml Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 13:06:51 -0400 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from imo-r05.mx.aol.com ([152.163.225.101] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.1b2) with ESMTP id 2112758 for lml@lancaironline.net; Thu, 10 Apr 2003 12:59:22 -0400 Received: from RWolf99@aol.com by imo-r05.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v34.21.) id q.7f.357cb004 (4238) for ; Thu, 10 Apr 2003 12:59:10 -0400 (EDT) From: RWolf99@aol.com X-Original-Message-ID: <7f.357cb004.2bc6fcde@aol.com> X-Original-Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 12:59:10 EDT Subject: Epoxy Scales X-Original-To: lml@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 108 I have used a 2000 gm capacity scale (cost about $99 nine years ago -- they are cheaper now) with a resolution of 1 gram. I have rarely, if ever, felt the need to use a higher capacity scale, since I can fill up a 16 oz mixing cup with epoxy and still use the scale. 2000 grams is 4.4 pounds of epoxy!!!! Of course that's usually plenty. I am reluctant to use batches smaller than 20 grams due to the coarse resolution. I would prefer a 0.1 gram resolution -- then I could mix smaller batches. I think that any capacity from 500-1000 grams would be perfectly fine. How much to mix? I've discovered that I need 1/2 gram per square inch of glass for small layups, and 1/3 gram per square inch for bigger layups. Estimate the number of square inches, multiply by the number of plies, and then divide that number by two or three. This is the weight of resin only -- add the hardener in the appropriate quantity. Use that much resin and add hardener to taste. (Well, not really "to taste"...) You can print out a graph and post in on the wall to save trying to find your sticky calculator -- or you can put your calculator in a baggie like John Kleber does. (That was a *great* idea, John!) This amount of epoxy is not what goes on the plane. I always have a little left over for painting a thin layer on the prepared surface, wetting out peel ply, a little leftover for trimming, etc. I use large 4 mil plastic bags to plan my layups. I buy these 24 x 14 inch bags in quantities of several hundred. (They are pretty cheap and much easier to deal with than segments of huge plastic dropcloths.) I draw the desired layup shape on the outside of the bag with a fat sharpie marker. I scribble on the outside of the bag in the middle of the layup so that I can see the piece of plastic and make sure I peel it off of the plane. I spread epoxy on the plastic, add a layer of BID, and repeat as needed. (I used to close up the bag and use a roller to squeeze out extra epoxy but that didn't work too well. Now I do that with the squeegee. So I really only need one side of the bag but the other side is a handy place to drop squeegees, mixing sticks, drippy cups, etc to keep my workbench cleaner.) Then I take the pizza roller and cut out the layup. This is why you need more epoxy for small layups than big ones. If you have an inch or two of wet-out epoxy all around, then there's more waste on a small layup than a big one... The plastic "carrier plate" keeps the BID sandwich from stretching as you position it on the plane. Peel it off when you need to -- you can keep it on longer on flat layups but you have to peel it off earlier on those complicated corner layups. Sorry if this is too basic for you experienced guys but the newbies might find it interesting. Everyone has their own special "tricks" and I'm not proud -- I steal the good ideas from anyone! - Rob Wolf