Return-Path: Received: from olympus.net ([198.133.237.1]) by truman.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.5.1 release 219 ID# 0-52269U2500L250S0V35) with ESMTP id com for ; Sun, 13 Dec 1998 12:06:14 -0500 Received: from sq19433.olympus.net ([207.149.194.33] helo=bill) by olympus.net with smtp (Exim 2.02 #1) id 0zpEzO-0000Jr-00 for lancair.list@olsusa.com; Sun, 13 Dec 1998 09:07:26 -0800 Message-ID: <002301be26bb$0ece6620$21c295cf@bill> From: "William T Bartlett" To: Subject: Transition light & Relays Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 06:12:36 -0800 X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Mime-Version: 1.0 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> You would have to put in two lights and two sets of wiring. What you do is buy one of those big (+-5/8")square full wave rectifiers (They have a hole to mount with and heavy lugs) from Radio Shack and hook the + terminals to each coil and the other terminal to your transition light. The other lug should be grounded. The grounding will keep your relay and switch points from arcing. Bill N7WB ----- Original Message ----- > They also don't have an indicator terminal like the Ford relays, >but putting the indicator light in parallel to the coil will solve that >shortcoming in a hurry. If you're vacillating about whether or not to >replace those Ford boat anchors that came with the kit, you can stop now. > > [I was thinking about just using a couple diodes, one from each relay, to the single light, but your idea of using the full wave rectifier sounds even better, what with providing the benefit of flyback protection to the pressure switch contacts, all in a single package. Great idea. Jeez, I love this list . ]