From: RWolf99@aol.com
Message-ID: <a.13f2a007.28f76b41@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 17:38:09 EDT
Subject: Re: LNC2 Flaps
To: lancair.list@olsusa.com
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Reply-To: lancair.list@olsusa.com

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In a message dated 10/10/2001 10:12:23 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
lancair.list@olsusa.com writes:

<< When the ailerons and flaps are attached and 
 set to a neutral position the ailerons look good, but one flap seems to 
 have a twist >>

I just closed one flap and went to reasonable (but not extreme) lengths to 
ensure that the inner corner matched up with the fuselage fillet and the 
outer corner matched up with the aileron in trail.  This was effected by 
clamping a 1/8" thick aluminum angle to the underside of the fuselage fillet 
and bracing the outboard end of the angle on the top of a small stepladder so 
that the flap trailing edge matched up with the aileron in trail.  Those 
cleco clamps work well for this.  I also clamped a 1/16 inch angle to the top 
of the trailiong edge to provide even clamping pressure to the TE joint and 
keep it straight.  I drove a cleco thru the TE into the lower angle to keep 
the top skin from sliding during curing.  I braced it like this when I 
installed the ribs, hoping that this would remove the twist in the flap (or 
more accurately, put a different twist in the flap).  That didn't work.  When 
I closed the flap (bonded on the top skin) I did the same thing, and the flap 
is now perfect.

I'd be mildly surprised if you could add the twist you need by jigging it up 
and heating it all to 250 F since you'd have to heat it all up at once, but 
if it can be done, this is the way to do it.  It's definitely worth a try.  
By all means, support the trailing edge full length by clamping a straight 
edge to both sides of it, and do the same to the front so the hinge line 
doesn't warp.  I think 1/8 inch aluminum angle, with cleco clamps every 12 
inches, should work fine.  Brace up the errant corner (in your case, the 
inner trailing edge) and weight down the angles only until the opposite 
corner is touching the hopefully flat floor.  Hold at 250 F for an hour or 
two to make sure it's warm evenly thoughout, and don't remove the clamps 
until you can touch them for a long time with bare hands (appx 120 F).  That 
honeycomb and foam will make the wing act like a thermos bottle.

You did put vent holes in the thing, didn't you?  It's not called for in the 
manual, but they are needed.

By the way. do you think this is why they park those things with the flaps 
down?  So nobody will notice?  ("Oops.  I forgot to raise them after landing. 
 Heh, heh."  Yeah, right.)  Hell, if it flies straight, that's what I'd 
do.....

- Rob Wolf
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Please send your photos and drawings to marvkaye@olsusa.com.
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