Message-ID: <01a301c142c8$a5954480$47e2c740@WilliamTBartlett>
From: "W T Bartlett" <wtbartlett@prodigy.net>
To: <lancair.list@olsusa.com>
References: <20010921045427.AAA20816@pop3.olsusa.com>
Subject: Re: L-360 heating
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 11:09:25 -0700
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I have my 235 heat muff stuffed full of  copper Brillo (Must be copper, not
copper plated) pad and it now have 200 Hrs.,  it does show some wear from
vibration, but no corrosion. Stainless steel Brillo is available, but
stainless doesn't transfer heat well. Aluminum is also available and might
work. These Brillo pads definitely increased the amount of heat coming from
the heat muff.

I also use the waste from the oil cooler which is significant. To make this
work,I had to put a door, with a 3/4" sq. opening, on my oil cooler intake
passage (naca duct with 3"  hose). Fast moving air does not have time to
pick up heat - that is true on both the oil cooler and heat muff. My oil
cooler is on my firewall and the aft shroud exhausts up into the accessory
area (idea to keep air moving in that area) and has a door that closes off
the shroud exit and opens a 1.25" tube through the firewall that routes hot
air to eyeball vent. This also gives off a considerable amount of heat.
I also use the flexable aluminum ducting, that auto supply stores sell, that
goes from exhaust to air cleaner on some cars. This ducting is available in
various diamiters, is easier to use, last longer, and is cheaper than  SCAT.
Bill N7WB

>
> I heard that the heating system/design for LNC2 is not efficient as it
> should be. Is there a way to get a hot air into the cabin more
efficiently?
>  From oil cooler, or larger or second heat muff, perhaps? If any of you
> designed and/or installed the system which is great please let me/us know.

> Increasing the conduction surface and convection surface area of the heat
> muff is the solution.  Tony Bengalis has a simply elegant idea.  Buy two
> long springs from the hardware store.  The kind you use for back porch
> screen doors.  >

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