Message-ID: <000e01c10c8e$e25fc0e0$46e2c740@WilliamTBartlett>
From: "W T Bartlett" <wtbartlett@prodigy.net>
To: <lancair.list@olsusa.com>
References: <20010714040332.AAA17875@pop3.olsusa.com>
Subject: Re:LC235 glareshield fabrication...
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2001 10:59:59 -0700
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I didn't like Neico's panel (only three inst across top, heavy, gellcelled
boat fiberglass, and short room for radio stack), so I had to make my glare
shield. It is structural (arched fore-aft + longitudinally) and does support
my panel. Fabrication was straight forward and easy.
The airplane was leveled and the panel (all instruments in place) was
propped vertical with stick braced against the header tank.
I cut a bunch of tapered wedges from a sheet of builders insulation foam
(don't use pink or white because it doesn't sand well). These wedges were
fit to the between the panel and header tank (see igloo building) and held
in place on the panel and tank with occasional dots of hot glue. I put
yellow (sands better than white) glue on the on the faces of the foam and
used toothpicks to hold position. Don't worry about precise fit, near is
good enough. I hot glued a 1" square to the upper aft face of the panel to
form the brow of the glare shield. I have my instrument lights, translucent
tubing with grain of wheat bulbs that kids in so-Cal put around their
fenders, under the brow.
Once the foam is in place surform and coarse sand to shape of the foam to
approximately what you want. Sand down to the instrument panel and to the
lip on the header tank. Continue the line of the header tank lip aft about
3/4". If there any big gaps between the foam wedges fill them with small
wedges glued
Check canopy clearance. When everything is about how you like it spread
wallboard mud over the foam and let dry. Use 80 grit to sand mud to smooth
finish.scribe a shallow line at the aft end of header tank lip and forward
side of panel edge.
Cover mold and tank lip and about 3" of aft tank top with duct tap. make
sure you indent above shallow lines. cover longerons in shield area too.
Cut a cloth pattern to cover the mold, eyebrow, and tank
Do a normal 3 bid lay-up between plastic, cut to shape of pattern and work
out bubbles. It may be easier to lay up in three pieces and would look about
as good. When dry pop dry trim to raids of longerons, forward edge of tank
lip and cut excess of underside of brow.
Make up a 4 bid angle 5" long (lay-up inside piece of greased angle scrap)
and cut into 3/4" pieces and epoxy them , equally spaced, to shield right on
panel line.
The shield is screwed to the tank lip and weather stripping goes on the
shield. I drilled the panel (mine is .060 aluminum) and through the angles
for screws. Use plate nuts on tank lip and little angles. I like the look of
the weave of finished fiberglass so I just sprayed the shield flat white to
make for cooler radios/ instruments. The white reflected in the windscreen,
so I had to change to flat gray.
Bill N7WB

> Subject: LC235 glareshield fabrication...
> Message-ID: <F130rM0mkhcQZt0p5a20001693a@hotmail.com>
>
> Hi List:
>
> Working on the instrument panel and just noted that there are no specific
> instructiuons in the 235 building manual on the construction of the
> glareshield.
<SNIP>
  ...-Ed Sikora


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