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I has = previously set the=20 idle stop screw very loose so I could manually close the idle as much as = I=20 wanted. I finally gave up and set the screw at some place that = thought=20 would reliably prevent the engine from quitting when pulling the = throttle=20 all the way back. This was at about 1200 RPM. Low and = behold,=20 the idle at 1200 (against the idle stop) was much better quality that I = could=20 previously=20 achieve.

Hi=20 Dave,

My idle=20 stop is what's keeping me at 1500 now, so that won't work = for me. I=20 might be able to get my A controller to idle down lower, but the B = controller=20 would surely quit, so I'll leave the idle up, until I figure = out=20 what's bugging the B=20 controller. <= /DIV>

I=20 looked at the EC-2 map with the EM-2 today, and it looked OK as far = as I=20 can tell. The problem is that I get the same data, regardless = of=20 which controller is selected, so I don't think I'm ever = seeing the map=20 for the B controller. If I turn off the EC-2, I get nothing, = but if I=20 turn on the EC-2 with A or B selected, I get the exact same data. = Tracy,=20 can you actually look at the B map this=20 way?

BTW, I have = looked at my=20 fuel pressure under idle. It goes from 42 with the engine off to = about 32=20 at idle.

From the = numbers I posted=20 earlier, mine is about 42 engine off, 35 at maybe 2000 rpm=20 on the ground, and 40 in flight at 5100 rpm. It appears = the=20 regulator is doing it's=20 job.

Rusty, my fuel=20 pressure regulator came with specific instructions to NOT use just just = one of=20 those ports. Tracy as also mentioned that they should be in T'd to = go to=20 the EC2. That is a definite starting point.

I went through = this with=20 the Rev-A setup, and hooking them together might have made a=20 difference. I'll try this again, but if it doesn't make a = noticeable diff,=20 I won't leave it that way. I like having each controller get a = separate=20 MAP source.

I spent some time looking at the details of = installing=20 an MSD injector in the block, and it looks doable. The hole in the = block=20 will need a sleeve that's .65" OD, .55" ID, and about 1.25" long. = The rail=20 hole needs to be slightly larger, and I think there would probably be = enough=20 meat on the aluminum rails to bore this out. I'd hate to screw up = the one=20 I'm using now (which I got from Kelly), so does anyone have an aluminum = primary=20 rail they'd sell me?

Thanks,

Rusty (can't seem to leave well enough=20 alone)

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