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Message
Good suggestion, Alex
What I have used with excellent
results and its available locally is heavy duty cooking aluminum foil. I
mix a little acetone with Silicone sealer to thin it and then paint the
fiberglass area with a brush. I then lay the sheet of aluminum foil over
the spread and pat/roll it down firmly. It works well and is not as
difficult to use as the thin stainless. It will tear if you pull your
screwdriver over it, but its not fragile and its cheap..err
inexpensive.
Ed
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2004 11:49 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Two problems
solved, 2 more pop up...
I would try aluminum
tape for radiation shedding of the turbo after shutdown. Just apply it to the
cowl wherever you want some shielding. It is sold in almost any hardware, and
is designed for high temps.
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ALUMINUM
TAPE
Aluminum
foil tape with self-adhesive backing seals seams and joint
openings when installing insulation. Forms a superior bond
to lock out air and moisture. Resistant to weather and
temperature extremes. 2"W. Available in 30 ft. and 150 ft.
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Recommended
Accessories |
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Item
Description |
Unit |
SKU# |
Price |
Qty. |
Order |
|
Aluminum Foil
Tape, 150-ft. Length |
Each |
ZX814608Y |
$13.95 |
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Aluminum Foil
Tape, 30-ft. Length |
Each |
ZX814607P |
$4.95 |
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Alex Madsen
-----Original
Message-----
From: Rotary
motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of Steve Brooks
Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2004 8:54
AM
To: Rotary motors in
aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary]
Re: Two problems solved, 2 more pop up...
Rusty, I now
know what you mean about cooked items under the cowl. I have been doing
a lot of running with the cowl on lately. Luckily cooling is no longer
an issue. Can run more than an hour under 2300 RPM with occasion bursts
up to 35 MAP for up to 15 sec without overheating. The big key in that
was running 80% water antifreze and some water wetter. Oil temps never a
problem.
New
problem: melt down after shut down. That turbo has a lot of very
hot mass. I flow enough air through the cowl when running to keep
things cool. Right after shut down the cowl is just luke warm to the
touch. But 5 min after shutting down the turbo side of the cowl is too
hot to touch on the top and I can smell resin. It gets a little
soft to tap on it and it is starting to look a little mottled and maybe
yellow (if I let my immagineation run away). I have seen a couple of
RVs with drop down hatches in the top cowl to let heat out after shut
down. Does anyone have an idea about how hot I can let the fiberglass
get? Bright Ideas?
I have the same
problem, sort of. I put some thin stainless, about like thick foil, on
the top and bottom cowling above and below the turbo. I was more
interested in radiant heat getting to it in flight, but it also works well
for the heat after shut down. I just put it on with 100% silicone
rubber. The cowling still gets pretty warm, but not
hot.
New Problem: RMI
tach no good. According to my RMI engine monitor I have about 4300 RPM
at 24 MAP. At 29 MAP I still only have about 4500 RPM and at 35 MAP I
am still at 4500 RPM static. I dont buy it because it sure sounds
different (faster). So I have to install an accessory
Tachometer.... Tracy, where was the Engine Monitor when I was building
the pannel? :-) I still have holes in my mixture map
as every now and then I pass through a hole and the mixture goes all
haywire.
Like John
mentioned, I used a pulse divider as well. I couldn't get a reliable
reading using the 12 pulse output. I divide by 6 using a CMOS divider,
which puts out pulses equivalent to a 4 cylider engine. Most tachs
will take that. If you want I can look up the part number for the IC I
used, but I think that it was a CD4060.
Old problem still
not fixed: Low RPM: to keep it running it needs to be rich, so much
that I billow smoke down 400 yrds of hangars. It comes out in billows
every 2-3 seconds. Above 2200 RPM there are no problems (never
were). Will be trying some 460cc injectors instead of the 550
primaries I currently have. If that dosen't work, the 2200 RPM will
have to be the idle speed.
I have some
tuning issues, but not that one. Mine idles great at about 800, and runs
great above 2000. Between those RPM's I have issues, but I think
that it's because I tuned the engine with a good sized air leak. I'm
going back to default, and starting over.
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