X-Junk-Score: 0 [] X-Cloudmark-Score: 0 [] X-Cloudmark-Analysis: v=2.3 cv=G+5i7Os5 c=1 sm=1 tr=0 a=aUb0gpmLtesR8ZTSUQD2JA==:117 a=jpOVt7BSZ2e4Z31A5e1TngXxSK0=:19 a=J70Eh1EUuV4A:10 a=1FbVHk0nW3IA:10 a=r77TgQKjGQsHNAKrUKIA:9 a=pGLkceISAAAA:8 a=dItZCVzeAAAA:8 a=o1OHuDzbAAAA:8 a=Ia-xEzejAAAA:8 a=tXwS-ErFAAAA:20 a=7g1VtSJxAAAA:8 a=g_qkcuOR88_sc3z9ExQA:9 a=QEXdDO2ut3YA:10 a=Qa1je4BO31QA:10 a=gvSQh4r-fQ0A:10 a=4PR2P7QzAAAA:8 a=TSJqyJ2kHu82fkkGmx0A:9 a=n5q9DMwn-yoPkHKI:21 a=_W_S_7VecoQA:10 a=AHA7rJRvoFYIrxRqZpkv:22 a=5YQ6H4ZxyGn-KoBYtt8s:22 a=Urk15JJjZg1Xo0ryW_k8:22 a=grOzbf7U_OpcSX4AJOnl:22 a=4dqwQCo7Po2mVW515mGf:22 From: "Finn Lassen finn.lassen@verizon.net" Received: from sonic317-26.consmr.mail.bf2.yahoo.com ([74.6.129.81] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 6.2.14) with ESMTPS id 12973299 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Thu, 19 Sep 2019 14:11:14 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=74.6.129.81; envelope-from=finn.lassen@verizon.net DKIM-Signature: v=1; a=rsa-sha256; c=relaxed/relaxed; d=verizon.net; s=a2048; t=1568916656; bh=FB1A2OwOG+lxl/2cVvMeyBSDaGe6p/Ebc4HtvnNl4fY=; h=Subject:To:References:From:Date:In-Reply-To:From:Subject; b=YdA5J/gpYb9nq0ek97ylSKGXb+uXizrwtYRm67JmmjaX7iLafMC40gDUj4jPpPf4Unyo05vclSocY9wp5mCiNQ2cjGEy+eDU5DeVrMCKI4pPpGiPO2CX20vY4CeI/6GC61vdpRAo9HlzvYGdoURD2m5v1HhHoOcaaHHS1jBIMCayxNUH0zBgMgWBGfaU28uijf4g75+4yHDaa1REQaS67ZhP/aTeWloq7p6IvjPTxI2z2PbgG7UZ25Ahexgvm6AU31z1K4vdF2VoLtgNgdCBLxhDW87h09dVgxwVeyk9dJ4GkiU/MDlWlzyIPnlX9xy9hW468HobgM0oZ8f7UdQ2Qg== X-YMail-OSG: OJQlzvIVM1kmHTVN3feSjkwWmad_WICj9o5zAqwG63Fea8X3ZWFzd_8T.Wg8gEI sexMDOgWlOpB3yHUoOpvwNcJ7HCGgxB78eA6OxLMM..TcuWtvyUcuLAE.pRGAsUmAIUFuRovDXzu idgayQPqvnPtNDjhuqs61Q_dojCSX6TFQt6xPJvYvKl.Sj6.Y1bqp5zxmey79pQWGDXiHzaeVFDS VPeOHASH6hR420sDlmV3y_zPjJB1x4nzziy09YlRx2WHCd8NOA7pE9UdgzKeqblssA9JvegOTn8F 1ZVBrnpLquGlJvf4urB6vpzdCqJBZMq5j3sWPlnf3y2tFiKpy3ojtLsUA0icsfezqfKFlbqbrRSQ beUoKe7b.V15cT4OjjoJKf.tGovjYtn.fRK8oUuYioHsucRBcfcWBhWr61lz.aEzWItSx263lqJb U6I4jGs8.scPdVuflzHgWjRA._N6qPouq4v9AcEyCY8tN7Xl7DJVUAVJj3v02Xg6WG9wAHYXLQJs p8dek0ODXt_9lQU38uEk5tCLeRpRbVRSG3VjxEC4p4Jt6yYJdFiqqLNQee_04Bbiz0sK4dQWhtOW SVp01zkbfmw1_V9Ddgyd2Z01LLcp4UrCZhUInPjpoM2OaHkhhNFa1s7f6i63EzeBaAF6fsvOFyqe MDBWebTachqPN7kdEvNDcz4kH7R7elK1u8BLX2sw6wK_jX1U4PMwZBb4PgECqiBiG0DZmiU9Yt8O 9Z0sTjIu_7wUw.SVZaeet3Eo2Y6mKkqbRH3WtGDXi.DDvtC6aQTq.UXERDthempNXuCD.4Dd8Dwi 6OcAS3dUGhJk00OIP5XOg144tZnmI1wbg4fJJGE.G8oxidNNV_e7nw4XtUvFIqK0npjXLn7I6U3O bW7VrSEW8sj5LUeknz0XImOZ9KsESeUDgly6IwnxU6Dx77V.hmuFHPHz_UCD3w8LL8Uo38FvMdCx XoQBAv151PQNa.nivQajVQppmnTr7kgOK.pk.pxBQRZHPc0fWVhKGFgW7S65v1mUX6eO4bbG1O2c jDZfx47IrXGdYQy1z.CIzs5OLnbCmP2hKvJBU1B.4cj3TIfo34gxY2lSWzI9NCa_C_Rtfu1j1cY6 _scCWBXaxebVAhnJ13gqVG5tfcE88dn.6_4yOGoASYdLyzSiBSyESMEhzaPMrAhLv9mtBJUudNLj 1dOBFEk0Rt4yc7BiifoeogbPSq9Hc2jPVhuAERJMD6ot85rubyt1PoNwGlB1EIPWnF.W8KzrbTMK EuGK3fItI56ZUsAc_DjSiyUsDTVHhJgsd._Fmk7_bccLtw47FLtin7oetPmjomwZpQw-- Received: from sonic.gate.mail.ne1.yahoo.com by sonic317.consmr.mail.bf2.yahoo.com with HTTP; Thu, 19 Sep 2019 18:10:56 +0000 Received: by smtp420.mail.bf1.yahoo.com (Oath Hermes SMTP Server) with ESMTPA ID 9ba0860fcdf6f8e2cc48cb95130560fe; Thu, 19 Sep 2019 18:10:52 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Bell mouth 3D printed To: Rotary motors in aircraft References: Message-ID: <2ec9e378-cca0-2a17-e3a7-a8943a24a474@verizon.net> Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2019 14:10:47 -0400 User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:52.0) Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/52.9.1 MIME-Version: 1.0 In-Reply-To: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="------------C718F94E2285650883908131" Content-Language: en-US This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------C718F94E2285650883908131 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Thanks, that's a good tip! I suspect that 20% infill is plenty strong in this case. Finn On 9/19/2019 10:03 AM, Dustin Lobner dmlobner@gmail.com wrote: > Finn, > > I've been doing 3D printing for awhile now, never tried ABS though. > > I've used 3D printed parts primarily for model rockets, things around > the house, etc.?? The stuff holds up well, moreso than one would think > normally. > > One suggestion I'd have is higher infill - when I'm printing something > that needs to hold up, I usually??run about 75% infill.?? I'm not sure > if that's possible with ABS or not, so I don't know if that's actually > good advice.?? One thing you can do, and only with ABS, if you take a > shop rag and wet it with Acetone (I think, google it) if you wipe the > part with the acetone, it dissolves the first layer or so (until the > acetone evaporates).?? This allows you to smooth the ABS with the rag > and get a gloss finish on it.?? You can also do vapor polishing: > https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/how-to-vapor-polishing I don't > like the hot method, if you look down the comments section someone > explains how to do the "cold" method.?? I'd try that. > > Good luck! > > Dustin > > On Thu, Sep 19, 2019 at 8:36 AM Finn Lassen finn.lassen@verizon.net > > wrote: > > My first experience with 3D printing. > > I had bought a new Ender-3 and a 1Kg spool of ABS for less than $200. > > Article and pictures here: > > https://drive.google.com/open?id=1LbQcJIGnjsfNWfL5qiwz5ev7ze9IWAzm > > I copied the "best" picture from the RET_Bellmouth_Sept.pdf article, > pasted it into Paint and saved as Bellmouth.bmp. > > Imported that into Fusion360 as canvas. Calibrated it so throat was > 19.972mm (1.18") > > Made a spline matching the left curve up to the top. > > Added a tangent arc (radius). > > Added a 2mm rectangle that extended the throat about 1" with an 1.25" > ID. (The bell mouth will slide 1" down on the 1.25" OD pipe.) > > Added a "looks good" spline from part of the arc down to the > throat. (I > believe that in our case, where most of the air comes from behind the > bell mouth, air should have a smooth path along the outside of the > pipe > and radius of bellmouth.) > > Revolved the whole thing to get the solid bell mouth. > > [The result is actually a bit smaller overall diameter than the > recommended 2.13 * 30 + 2 * (0.08 * 2.13 * 30) = 74mm] > > Exported to a .stl file. > > Downloaded and installed Ultimaker Cura 4.2.1. > > Opened the .stl file with Cura and "sliced" it. 20% infill. This > changes > the solid inside to a criss-cross pattern. Looking at it being > printed > it appeared?? to produce about 3/32" thick walls by default. > > Saved result to .gcode file. > > Printed with the Ender-3. Took 3 hours and 15 mins. > > Nozzle temp default for ABS is 240*C. Spool says 230-260*C. Seeing > how > some of the strands didn't stick and pulled across the mouth, I think > I'll use a higher nozzle temp on the next print. > > I printed it with mouth down. Unfortunately that resulted in a radius > quite different from the design model. I'll try to smooth the lip > on my > first attempt with epoxy or JB Weld and sandpaper. If I print it > throat > down, it'll probably need support along the outside that'll have > to be > cut after printing. > > Will ABS be strong enough? I think so. The airflow should keep temps > well below 85*C. > > Finn > > > -- > Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ > Archive and UnSub: > http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html > --------------C718F94E2285650883908131 Content-Type: text/html; charset=utf-8 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
Thanks, that's a good tip!

I suspect that 20% infill is plenty strong in this case.

Finn

On 9/19/2019 10:03 AM, Dustin Lobner dmlobner@gmail.com wrote:
Finn,

I've been doing 3D printing for awhile now, never tried ABS though.

I've used 3D printed parts primarily for model rockets, things around the house, etc.?? The stuff holds up well, moreso than one would think normally.

One suggestion I'd have is higher infill - when I'm printing something that needs to hold up, I usually??run about 75% infill.?? I'm not sure if that's possible with ABS or not, so I don't know if that's actually good advice.?? One thing you can do, and only with ABS, if you take a shop rag and wet it with Acetone (I think, google it) if you wipe the part with the acetone, it dissolves the first layer or so (until the acetone evaporates).?? This allows you to smooth the ABS with the rag and get a gloss finish on it.?? You can also do vapor polishing:??https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/how-to-vapor-polishing?? I don't like the hot method, if you look down the comments section someone explains how to do the "cold" method.?? I'd try that.

Good luck!

Dustin

On Thu, Sep 19, 2019 at 8:36 AM Finn Lassen finn.lassen@verizon.net <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:
My first experience with 3D printing.

I had bought a new Ender-3 and a 1Kg spool of ABS for less than $200.

Article and pictures here:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1LbQcJIGnjsfNWfL5qiwz5ev7ze9IWAzm

I copied the "best" picture from the RET_Bellmouth_Sept.pdf article,
pasted it into Paint and saved as Bellmouth.bmp.

Imported that into Fusion360 as canvas. Calibrated it so throat was
19.972mm (1.18")

Made a spline matching the left curve up to the top.

Added a tangent arc (radius).

Added a 2mm rectangle that extended the throat about 1" with an 1.25"
ID. (The bell mouth will slide 1" down on the 1.25" OD pipe.)

Added a "looks good" spline from part of the arc down to the throat. (I
believe that in our case, where most of the air comes from behind the
bell mouth, air should have a smooth path along the outside of the pipe
and radius of bellmouth.)

Revolved the whole thing to get the solid bell mouth.

[The result is actually a bit smaller overall diameter than the
recommended 2.13 * 30 + 2 * (0.08 * 2.13 * 30) = 74mm]

Exported to a .stl file.

Downloaded and installed Ultimaker Cura 4.2.1.

Opened the .stl file with Cura and "sliced" it. 20% infill. This changes
the solid inside to a criss-cross pattern. Looking at it being printed
it appeared?? to produce about 3/32" thick walls by default.

Saved result to .gcode file.

Printed with the Ender-3. Took 3 hours and 15 mins.

Nozzle temp default for ABS is 240*C. Spool says 230-260*C. Seeing how
some of the strands didn't stick and pulled across the mouth, I think
I'll use a higher nozzle temp on the next print.

I printed it with mouth down. Unfortunately that resulted in a radius
quite different from the design model. I'll try to smooth the lip on my
first attempt with epoxy or JB Weld and sandpaper. If I print it throat
down, it'll probably need support along the outside that'll have to be
cut after printing.

Will ABS be strong enough? I think so. The airflow should keep temps
well below 85*C.

Finn


--
Homepage:?? http://www.flyrotary.com/
Archive and UnSub:?? ??http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html


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