I agree that in-tank is the best
solution. But it isn't easy to achieve with an already-built tank.
Also, a single pump in each tank has the significant downside of
trapping fuel in the tank if the single pump or anything in its
control path fails. So, multiple source tanks would mean multiple
pump pairs, and to preserve redundancy, a pair of switches for
each pair of pumps. See how nasty it gets?
The little turbine pumps are just tall enough that it's really
tight in a -7/8 tank, so they might not fit at all in a -9 tank.
And they are difficult to orient horizontally, because the filter
sock (fuel pickup) attach on the input is a little 3/8" tapered
stub, with a little post beside it that accepts a spring loaded
lock ring, which retains the filter sock. I've never been able to
find a filter sock that is set up to let the pump sit
horizontally. I suppose I could have found a way to bond an
adapter to the pump, but then field replacement would become an
issue. Another complication for height is that the outlet is also
a minimally barbed fitting, and requires an output hose that adds
to the height. So, I moved back to the 393s.
One of my 'iterations' was a pair of 393s on a subframe that I
could screw to the stiffeners in the bottom of the tank. (pics
available, if you want them.) I have a wrecked RV-8 tank (same as
my -7) that I cut open and used it as a pattern, so I had it
easier than most in designing it. Plumbing is done, but I stopped
short of mounting fuel proof electrical pass-throughs in the
access panel.
The in-tank pumps, by themselves, won't cure the return line
problem. Returnless systems with turbine pumps need PWM control to
regulate the pressure. (According to Walbro, you shouldn't use PWM
on the gerotor pumps because it fatigues the gears in the pump.)
Cars have the PWM controller built into the car's computer. I
found a guy several years ago who created a stand-alone PWM
controller for his motorcycle injection system and was selling
them, but when I started adding up all the changes, unproven
control hardware, etc, I decided that at least for now, our
conventional setups make more sense for me.
I do have a pair of aux tanks, but I elected to plumb engine
supply from one of the main tanks, and use the stock 3 in/1 out
fuel selector to pick which of the 3 other tanks gets transferred
to the supply tank. This resulted in the lowest part count I could
come up with. A pair of injection pumps, a pair of transfer pumps
(for transfer redundancy), and one valve. The injection pumps
serve as my main fuel shutoff. I wanted to completely eliminate
selector valves, but that would have meant redundant pumps for all
3 source tanks, along with switches for control. So retaining the
single selector valve was as simple as I could get.
Charlie
On 2/15/2019 7:06 PM, Todd Bartrim
bartrim@gmail.com wrote:
Hi Charlie;
This is good for new builders and others having to do
rebuild or a redesign, but I'd like to add my 2-bits for the
benefit of any new builders that are still early in the
construction phase.
I would seriously investigate the possibility of using an
in-tank pump in each tank. Especially if you are considering
auxiliary tanks. My desire to have inboard, outboard and tip
tanks on each wing, caused untold amounts of complexity in
valving arrangements.
I really wish I'd at least considered in-tank pumps, but at
the time I wanted to use the same in-line pumps that everyone
else was using successfully.
Another factor in my reluctance to use the in-tank pump was
that at the time they still required a return line that would
have to be managed, but today's in-tank pumps are usually
returnless with the regulator built into the pump.
I can't say much more about them as I haven't investigated
any more in depth but I would encourage new builders to further
explore the possibilities of these as well as the one you
mentioned.
Todd
Hi guys,
One of the things that drove me to add a 2nd alternator to
my install is
the relatively high current draw of the 'standard' Walbro
GSL393 fuel
pump (around 6A). I looked at using the little turbine pumps
(around
3--4A), but they must be inside the tank(s) since they
cannot self prime.
Over on the VAF (RV-x) forum, there's a guy who's using the
typical
Bendix style injection on his Lyc, but wants to eliminate
the engine
driven pump. He's also (drastically) over- (and incorrectly)
thinking
that what's already available isn't safe, so he's embarked
on his own
research. Fortuitously, he turned up something that could be
useful to
us. Turns out that Walbro makes a smaller gerotor pump, that
can supply
30 GPH (instead of 60), and only draws around 2.5A. Model is
GSL414; a
bit harder to find, but roughly the same $ as the 393. If I
hadn't
already done the alternator work and bought the pumps, I'd
be giving
this a serious look.
Here's his testing thread, if anyone's interested.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=168793
Charlie
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