Mailing List flyrotary@lancaironline.net Message #64431
From: Neil Unger 12348ung@gmail.com <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Flexplare Replacement
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2018 07:42:34 +1100
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>

Rich,

The flexible part consists of a plate, a center drive block, and a 2 inch metal square welded into the plate.  The drive block is vulcanised into the square tube which involves chemical cleaning for the rubber to adhere perfectly.  Then the plate has to be lathed true to the center drive splined block to eliminate any "walking" of the mounting plate.  The plate must be true to the center of the drive block.   All this is done when you buy the plate and then just need the alloy spacer to bolt all together.

Should the rubber begin to fail,  the unit can be cleaned up and revulcanised, but the rubber company would need the jig to do that (or you make one yourself for them).  I would think that an exchange system is where we will end up.  Vulcanizing costs alone are $100  (AUD), so suspect that exchange costs may be $150 USD with freight, or you can get it done yourself.  Again you need a jig to machine the mounting plate true to the drive block once vulcanised.  This is a slow job as you are now attempting to machine a flexible rubber coupling, so slow and steady is the only way.  Again a jig is not hard to make especially with freight costs these days.

Neil.


On 11/8/2018 7:06 AM, argoldman@aol.com wrote:
It looks like a great solution for flexplateopathy.
What is involved in replacing the flexible part of this coupling?
thanks

Rich

In a message dated 11/7/2018 2:02:24 PM Central Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:

joe,

                  Just unbolt the old flex drive, and bolt mine on.

Neil Unger.


On 11/7/2018 9:10 PM, Joseph Berki jskmberki@windstream.net wrote:
> Neil,
>
> Are there any modifications to the RD-1C hardware using your solution?
>
> Joe Berki
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 6, 2018 8:02 PM
> To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
> Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Flexplare Replacement
>
> Marc,
>
> Attached photo is of the original mounted on my engine, The unit shown has urethane as the "flex" which lasted about 5 hours and the spacer is the original without excess material milled off for lightness. Input shaft is Tracy's whereas mine is one piece and a lot dearer!! Basically as shown the plate with the vulcanised drive block is bolted through the spacer and flexplate onto the e shaft as shown and is lighter than Tracy's but by how much I forget. Made specifically to retrofit all Tracy's reduction drives.
>
> Neil Unger.
>
>
> On 11/7/2018 10:12 AM, Marc Wiese cardmarc@charter.net wrote:
>> Neil,
>> Can I see a sketch of how it all fits together front to back?
>> Marc
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
>> Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2018 3:28 PM
>> To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
>> Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Flexplare Replacement
>>
>> Joe, There is another way which is my cushion drive (attached) which will cost approx $500 USD plus freight with the current exchange rate. Main cost is the splined drive block so that it matches up with Tracy's splined input shaft. The photo shows the 2 parts of the unit, spacer and splined cushion drive, which bolt direct onto the e shaft with the normal flexplate in between. Uses the normal flexplate with no strain whatever on the flexplate. Your money and your decision!!
>>
>> Neil Unger
>>
>>
>> On 11/7/2018 6:06 AM, Jeff Whaley jwhaley@datacast.com wrote:
>>> Hi Joe, I believe there are two ways you can go, though I don't have part numbers or exact details for you:
>>> 1) Tracy's Method: Use an aluminum flywheel directly, including the center spline coupling - this eliminates the damper plate and the need to drill holes. The catch is the spline does not match the original RD1-C prop shaft spline.
>>> 2) Dave Leonard's Method: Use an aluminum flywheel, no center spline, mount the damper plate, remove material from one face to adjust ring gear position relative to starter.
>>> A quick search of the list should get you more info as it was discussed lately ...
>>> Jeff
>>>
>>> I have been looking at various flywheels for possible candidate replacement.
>>>
>>> I thought the aluminum units would provide the least amount of weight gain.
>>>
>>> I noticed that there are a lot of holes in these units including the replaceable friction area with many screw holes.
>>>
>>> I was under the impression that the holes in the flexplate promoted stress cracks.
>>>
>>> These flywheels however may have sufficient material to counteract the stress potential.
>>>
>>> Can someone provide a brand or part number that is acceptable?
>>>
>>> I believe that the additional machining to modify one of these flywheels is the holes for the torsional damper.
>>>
>>> Thanks for any help.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Joe Berki
>>>
>>> --
>>> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/
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>>
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>
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