Mailing List flyrotary@lancaironline.net Message #64428
From: Neil Unger 12348ung@gmail.com <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Flexplare Replacement
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2018 07:01:54 +1100
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
joe,

                  Just unbolt the old flex drive, and bolt mine on.

Neil Unger.


On 11/7/2018 9:10 PM, Joseph Berki jskmberki@windstream.net wrote:
Neil,

Are there any modifications to the RD-1C hardware using your solution?

Joe Berki

-----Original Message-----
From: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 6, 2018 8:02 PM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Flexplare Replacement

Marc,

                  Attached photo is of the original mounted on my engine,  The unit shown has urethane as the "flex" which lasted about 5 hours and the spacer is the original without excess material milled off for lightness.  Input shaft is Tracy's whereas mine is one piece and a lot dearer!!   Basically as shown the plate with the vulcanised drive block is bolted through the spacer and flexplate onto the e shaft as shown and is lighter than Tracy's but by how much I forget.  Made specifically to retrofit all Tracy's reduction drives.

Neil Unger.


On 11/7/2018 10:12 AM, Marc Wiese cardmarc@charter.net wrote:
Neil,
Can I see a sketch of how it all fits together front to back?
Marc

-----Original Message-----
From: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2018 3:28 PM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Flexplare Replacement

Joe,  There is another way which is my cushion drive (attached) which will cost approx $500 USD plus freight with the current exchange rate. Main cost is the splined drive block so that it matches up with Tracy's splined input shaft.  The photo shows the 2 parts of the unit, spacer and splined cushion drive, which bolt direct onto the e shaft with the normal flexplate  in between. Uses the normal flexplate with no strain whatever on the flexplate.  Your money and your decision!!

Neil Unger


On 11/7/2018 6:06 AM, Jeff Whaley jwhaley@datacast.com wrote:
Hi Joe, I believe there are two ways you can go, though I don't have part numbers or exact details for you:
1) Tracy's Method: Use an aluminum flywheel directly, including the center spline coupling - this eliminates the damper plate and the need to drill holes. The catch is the spline does not match the original RD1-C prop shaft spline.
2) Dave Leonard's Method: Use an aluminum flywheel, no center spline, mount the damper plate, remove material from one face to adjust ring gear position relative to starter.
A quick search of the list should get you more info as it was discussed lately ...
Jeff

I have been looking at various flywheels for possible candidate replacement.

I thought the aluminum units would provide the least amount of weight gain.

I noticed that there are a lot of holes in these units including the replaceable friction area with many screw holes.

I was under the impression that the holes in the flexplate promoted stress cracks.

These flywheels however may have sufficient material to counteract the stress potential.

Can someone provide a brand or part number that is acceptable?

I believe that the additional machining to modify one of these flywheels is the holes for the torsional damper.

Thanks for any help.

    
Joe Berki

--
Homepage:  http://www.flyrotary.com/
Archive and UnSub:   http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html

--
Homepage:  http://www.flyrotary.com/
Archive and UnSub:   http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html


--
Homepage:  http://www.flyrotary.com/
Archive and UnSub:   http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html

Subscribe (FEED) Subscribe (DIGEST) Subscribe (INDEX) Unsubscribe Mail to Listmaster