From: "Neil Unger 12348ung@gmail.com" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
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Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Flexplare Replacement
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
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Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2018 07:01:54 +1100
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joe,

                   Just unbolt the old flex drive, and bolt mine on.

Neil Unger.


On 11/7/2018 9:10 PM, Joseph Berki jskmberki@windstream.net wrote:
> Neil,
>
> Are there any modifications to the RD-1C hardware using your solution?
>
> Joe Berki
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 6, 2018 8:02 PM
> To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
> Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Flexplare Replacement
>
> Marc,
>
>                   Attached photo is of the original mounted on my engine,  The unit shown has urethane as the "flex" which lasted about 5 hours and the spacer is the original without excess material milled off for lightness.  Input shaft is Tracy's whereas mine is one piece and a lot dearer!!   Basically as shown the plate with the vulcanised drive block is bolted through the spacer and flexplate onto the e shaft as shown and is lighter than Tracy's but by how much I forget.  Made specifically to retrofit all Tracy's reduction drives.
>
> Neil Unger.
>
>
> On 11/7/2018 10:12 AM, Marc Wiese cardmarc@charter.net wrote:
>> Neil,
>> Can I see a sketch of how it all fits together front to back?
>> Marc
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
>> Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2018 3:28 PM
>> To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
>> Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Flexplare Replacement
>>
>> Joe,  There is another way which is my cushion drive (attached) which will cost approx $500 USD plus freight with the current exchange rate. Main cost is the splined drive block so that it matches up with Tracy's splined input shaft.  The photo shows the 2 parts of the unit, spacer and splined cushion drive, which bolt direct onto the e shaft with the normal flexplate  in between. Uses the normal flexplate with no strain whatever on the flexplate.  Your money and your decision!!
>>
>> Neil Unger
>>
>>
>> On 11/7/2018 6:06 AM, Jeff Whaley jwhaley@datacast.com wrote:
>>> Hi Joe, I believe there are two ways you can go, though I don't have part numbers or exact details for you:
>>> 1) Tracy's Method: Use an aluminum flywheel directly, including the center spline coupling - this eliminates the damper plate and the need to drill holes. The catch is the spline does not match the original RD1-C prop shaft spline.
>>> 2) Dave Leonard's Method: Use an aluminum flywheel, no center spline, mount the damper plate, remove material from one face to adjust ring gear position relative to starter.
>>> A quick search of the list should get you more info as it was discussed lately ...
>>> Jeff
>>>
>>> I have been looking at various flywheels for possible candidate replacement.
>>>
>>> I thought the aluminum units would provide the least amount of weight gain.
>>>
>>> I noticed that there are a lot of holes in these units including the replaceable friction area with many screw holes.
>>>
>>> I was under the impression that the holes in the flexplate promoted stress cracks.
>>>
>>> These flywheels however may have sufficient material to counteract the stress potential.
>>>
>>> Can someone provide a brand or part number that is acceptable?
>>>
>>> I believe that the additional machining to modify one of these flywheels is the holes for the torsional damper.
>>>
>>> Thanks for any help.
>>>
>>>     
>>>
>>> Joe Berki
>>>
>>> --
>>> Homepage:  http://www.flyrotary.com/
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>>
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>
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