flyrotary@lancaironline.net Mailing List Archive

Neil, Are there any modifications to the RD-1C hardware using your solution? Joe Berki -----Original Message----- From: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> Sent: Tuesday, November 6, 2018 8:02 PM To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Flexplare Replacement Marc, Attached photo is of the original mounted on my engine, The unit shown has urethane as the "flex" which lasted about 5 hours and the spacer is the original without excess material milled off for lightness. Input shaft is Tracy's whereas mine is one piece and a lot dearer!! Basically as shown the plate with the vulcanised drive block is bolted through the spacer and flexplate onto the e shaft as shown and is lighter than Tracy's but by how much I forget. Made specifically to retrofit all Tracy's reduction drives. Neil Unger. On 11/7/2018 10:12 AM, Marc Wiese cardmarc@charter.net wrote: > Neil, > Can I see a sketch of how it all fits together front to back? > Marc > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> > Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2018 3:28 PM > To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> > Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Flexplare Replacement > > Joe, There is another way which is my cushion drive (attached) which will cost approx $500 USD plus freight with the current exchange rate. Main cost is the splined drive block so that it matches up with Tracy's splined input shaft. The photo shows the 2 parts of the unit, spacer and splined cushion drive, which bolt direct onto the e shaft with the normal flexplate in between. Uses the normal flexplate with no strain whatever on the flexplate. Your money and your decision!! > > Neil Unger > > > On 11/7/2018 6:06 AM, Jeff Whaley jwhaley@datacast.com wrote: >> Hi Joe, I believe there are two ways you can go, though I don't have part numbers or exact details for you: >> 1) Tracy's Method: Use an aluminum flywheel directly, including the center spline coupling - this eliminates the damper plate and the need to drill holes. The catch is the spline does not match the original RD1-C prop shaft spline. >> 2) Dave Leonard's Method: Use an aluminum flywheel, no center spline, mount the damper plate, remove material from one face to adjust ring gear position relative to starter. >> A quick search of the list should get you more info as it was discussed lately ... >> Jeff >> >> I have been looking at various flywheels for possible candidate replacement. >> >> I thought the aluminum units would provide the least amount of weight gain. >> >> I noticed that there are a lot of holes in these units including the replaceable friction area with many screw holes. >> >> I was under the impression that the holes in the flexplate promoted stress cracks. >> >> These flywheels however may have sufficient material to counteract the stress potential. >> >> Can someone provide a brand or part number that is acceptable? >> >> I believe that the additional machining to modify one of these flywheels is the holes for the torsional damper. >> >> Thanks for any help. >> >> >> >> Joe Berki >> >> -- >> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ >> Archive and UnSub: http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html > > > -- > Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ > Archive and UnSub: http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html