Joe,  There is another way which is my cushion drive (attached) which
will cost approx $500 USD plus freight with the current exchange rate.  
Main cost is the splined drive block so that it matches up with Tracy's
splined input shaft.  The photo shows the 2 parts of the unit, spacer
and splined cushion drive, which bolt direct onto the e shaft with the
normal flexplate  in between. Uses the normal flexplate with no strain
whatever on the flexplate.  Your money and your decision!!

Neil Unger


On 11/7/2018 6:06 AM, Jeff Whaley jwhaley@datacast.com wrote:
> Hi Joe, I believe there are two ways you can go, though I don't have part numbers or exact details for you:
> 1) Tracy's Method: Use an aluminum flywheel directly, including the center spline coupling - this eliminates the damper plate and the need to drill holes. The catch is the spline does not match the original RD1-C prop shaft spline.
> 2) Dave Leonard's Method: Use an aluminum flywheel, no center spline, mount the damper plate, remove material from one face to adjust ring gear position relative to starter.
> A quick search of the list should get you more info as it was discussed lately ...
> Jeff
>
> I have been looking at various flywheels for possible candidate replacement.
>
> I thought the aluminum units would provide the least amount of weight gain.
>
> I noticed that there are a lot of holes in these units including the replaceable friction area with many screw holes.
>
> I was under the impression that the holes in the flexplate promoted stress cracks.
>
> These flywheels however may have sufficient material to counteract the stress potential.
>
> Can someone provide a brand or part number that is acceptable?
>
> I believe that the additional machining to modify one of these flywheels is the holes for the torsional damper.
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
>   
>
> Joe Berki
>
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