Mailing List flyrotary@lancaironline.net Message #64421
From: Charlie England ceengland7@gmail.com <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Flexplare Replacement
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2018 20:39:17 -0600
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Hi Neil,

Do you have pics of the shell and spline pieces without the soft material? If the soft stuff fails, what happens to power transmission from flywheel to input shaft?

Thanks,

Charlie

On 11/6/2018 7:02 PM, Neil Unger 12348ung@gmail.com wrote:
Marc,

                Attached photo is of the original mounted on my engine,  The unit shown has urethane as the "flex" which lasted about 5 hours and the spacer is the original without excess material milled off for lightness.  Input shaft is Tracy's whereas mine is one piece and a lot dearer!!   Basically as shown the plate with the vulcanised drive block is bolted through the spacer and flexplate onto the e shaft as shown and is lighter than Tracy's but by how much I forget.  Made specifically to retrofit all Tracy's reduction drives.

Neil Unger.


On 11/7/2018 10:12 AM, Marc Wiese cardmarc@charter.net wrote:
Neil,
Can I see a sketch of how it all fits together front to back?
Marc

-----Original Message-----
From: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2018 3:28 PM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Flexplare Replacement

Joe,  There is another way which is my cushion drive (attached) which will cost approx $500 USD plus freight with the current exchange rate. Main cost is the splined drive block so that it matches up with Tracy's splined input shaft.  The photo shows the 2 parts of the unit, spacer and splined cushion drive, which bolt direct onto the e shaft with the normal flexplate  in between. Uses the normal flexplate with no strain whatever on the flexplate.  Your money and your decision!!

Neil Unger


On 11/7/2018 6:06 AM, Jeff Whaley jwhaley@datacast.com wrote:
Hi Joe, I believe there are two ways you can go, though I don't have part numbers or exact details for you:
1) Tracy's Method: Use an aluminum flywheel directly, including the center spline coupling - this eliminates the damper plate and the need to drill holes. The catch is the spline does not match the original RD1-C prop shaft spline.
2) Dave Leonard's Method: Use an aluminum flywheel, no center spline, mount the damper plate, remove material from one face to adjust ring gear position relative to starter.
A quick search of the list should get you more info as it was discussed lately ...
Jeff

I have been looking at various flywheels for possible candidate replacement.

I thought the aluminum units would provide the least amount of weight gain.

I noticed that there are a lot of holes in these units including the replaceable friction area with many screw holes.

I was under the impression that the holes in the flexplate promoted stress cracks.

These flywheels however may have sufficient material to counteract the stress potential.

Can someone provide a brand or part number that is acceptable?

I believe that the additional machining to modify one of these flywheels is the holes for the torsional damper.

Thanks for any help.

  
Joe Berki

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