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Hi Neil,
Do you have pics of the shell and spline pieces without the soft
material? If the soft stuff fails, what happens to power
transmission from flywheel to input shaft?
Thanks,
Charlie
On 11/6/2018 7:02 PM, Neil Unger 12348ung@gmail.com wrote:
Marc,
Attached photo is of the original mounted on my
engine, The unit shown has urethane as the "flex" which lasted
about 5 hours and the spacer is the original without excess
material milled off for lightness. Input shaft is Tracy's whereas
mine is one piece and a lot dearer!! Basically as shown the
plate with the vulcanised drive block is bolted through the spacer
and flexplate onto the e shaft as shown and is lighter than
Tracy's but by how much I forget. Made specifically to retrofit
all Tracy's reduction drives.
Neil Unger.
On 11/7/2018 10:12 AM, Marc Wiese cardmarc@charter.net wrote:
Neil,
Can I see a sketch of how it all fits together front to back?
Marc
-----Original Message-----
From: Rotary motors in aircraft
<flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2018 3:28 PM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
<flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Flexplare Replacement
Joe, There is another way which is my cushion drive (attached)
which will cost approx $500 USD plus freight with the current
exchange rate. Main cost is the splined drive block so that it
matches up with Tracy's splined input shaft. The photo shows
the 2 parts of the unit, spacer and splined cushion drive, which
bolt direct onto the e shaft with the normal flexplate in
between. Uses the normal flexplate with no strain whatever on
the flexplate. Your money and your decision!!
Neil Unger
On 11/7/2018 6:06 AM, Jeff Whaley jwhaley@datacast.com wrote:
Hi Joe, I believe there are two ways you
can go, though I don't have part numbers or exact details for
you:
1) Tracy's Method: Use an aluminum flywheel directly,
including the center spline coupling - this eliminates the
damper plate and the need to drill holes. The catch is the
spline does not match the original RD1-C prop shaft spline.
2) Dave Leonard's Method: Use an aluminum flywheel, no center
spline, mount the damper plate, remove material from one face
to adjust ring gear position relative to starter.
A quick search of the list should get you more info as it was
discussed lately ...
Jeff
I have been looking at various flywheels for possible
candidate replacement.
I thought the aluminum units would provide the least amount of
weight gain.
I noticed that there are a lot of holes in these units
including the replaceable friction area with many screw holes.
I was under the impression that the holes in the flexplate
promoted stress cracks.
These flywheels however may have sufficient material to
counteract the stress potential.
Can someone provide a brand or part number that is acceptable?
I believe that the additional machining to modify one of these
flywheels is the holes for the torsional damper.
Thanks for any help.
Joe Berki
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