Lynn
I’m using sweeping AN bends. I use Mobile 1 10W30 in Perth OAT temps 50-100. Should I change to a higher weight?
In relation to the gallery are we talking about internal or at the top of the engine that connects with the oil filter pedestal?

Thanks for the wisdom.
Steve

When we got our first dose of Mobile one, about 25 new police cruisers.  The oil people were using the cruisers as a test of their oil. So the oil was going to be free to the city. One of them didn't make it to the police garage from the dealership for the addition of lights and such. Lost a rod bearing. In the next 6 weeks we lost two more engines. The deal with Mobile was called off and all of those cruisers lost the Mobile oil and went back to some god awful cheap fleet oil that never failed. That faulty start up was over 40 years ago.  While it is probably much improved since then and is used in many fancy cars, my bet is that the car companies get it for free or for very little just so Mobile gets years of after sales. I wouldn't put in my lawn mower engine. 

Cars and trucks are usually governed so as wide open throttle cannot generate enough heat to out run their cooling systems. So, if you cross the Southwestern desert at full tilt, you can probably make it in a stock car or truck.  

So the engine is not producing its full HP. Very few people ever get to try this test. The point is that the car engine has been operated well below its capability.  Now comes the nut cases that use car engines in airplanes. What is the most often seen problem? Over heating. Where the 115 HP car seldom sees more than 2,000 RPM, or uses the full 115 HP, we now demand  160 HP from that same engine at 5,500 RPM. And we want it for 3 hours. That would be very close to a 100% duty cycle. 

Water and oil coolers are tested in SAE designed test facilities.   Just guessing now......Tests piece sealed against the walls of the cell. Specific airflow and temp....Coolant in and out temps and pressures recorded... Performance recorded for thousands of combinations. The point is that if your installation does not resemble the SAE test cell, The rating of that cooler is pointless. It is always lower than the rating.  So, is your cooler 90 degrees to the air flow?  Is it glued into the ducting with some kind of sealant?  Very few installations are even close to adequate. Many really great looking installations don't work.  Work backwards from the BTU output you expect. Size the coolers and add 50% or more.  More than 50% of the total heat load is in the oil.

Racing synthetics collect heat quickly, and give it up quickly. They are still oil at stupid high temps. They have higher film strength than street oils. They have more anti foaming agents than street oils.

The rotary sprays oil into the rotors to cool them. It gets foamed up real proper. This appears as lower oil pressure. Plus the spray jets are a big oil leak by themselves. Foam is an insulator. This makes that cooler even less efficient. Sorry, I run on some times.

The front rotor bearing seems to fail more often than the rear. This is for racers or if the history of that engine is unknown. We pipe oil into the end of the gallery that goes straight into the front main bearing. Do not plug any dowel pins.   10W30 oil that has a base flow rating of 10 weight oil. The 30 number is what the flow rating is at operating temp. Done with Polymers that link up at elevated temps. Polymers are not oil. So we used 10-40 or 20-50 weight RedLine synthetic racing oil.  Looking for 160 degrees oil and 180 degrees coolant. Have a lot of rotary folks been able to get down to those numbers? 

Lynn E. Hanover

 2 Aug 2018, at 9:51 am, Account lehanover lehanover@aol.com <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:
>
> The use of sweep 90s rather than drilled 90s will perk things up. The use of a racing synthetic in 40 or 50 weight will perk things up some more. Look into the gallery and see if the oil hole in the stationary gear is overhanging the gallery opening. Correct if required.
>
> Use only K&N filters. 350 pound burst cans. Friends don't let friends buy Fram filters......EVER.
> Lynn E. Hanover
>
> In a message dated 8/1/2018 10:53:43 AM Eastern Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:
>
> The hoses have to flow the total oil pumped.
> Two galleries into engine, 1 to ocv, other to bearings so can be smaller than hose size as neither flow all oil.
> Andrew
>
> On Wed, 1 Aug 2018 at 10:28 pm, Stephen Izett stephen.izett@gmail.com <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:
> I’m guessing the new system will be a total loop of AN10 1500mm through 6 90deg fittings Mocal 44 row cooler (<6psi pressure drop) and remote spin on K&N oil filter.
>
> Steve Izett
>
> > On 1 Aug 2018, at 8:22 pm, Charlie England ceengland7@gmail.com <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:
> >
> > 10mm= ~0.394 inches
> > AN-8= 0.50 Inches
> >
> > Do you have really long runs of oil lines?
> >
> > On Wed, Aug 1, 2018 at 1:30 AM, Stephen Izett stephen.izett@gmail.com <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:
> > Hi guys
> > I measured the oil passage diameters (bearing and regulator passages) under the oil filter pedestal of a Renesis today.
> > They are 10mm in case anyone else was wondering.
> > I don’t know what possessed me all those years ago, but I plumbed the oil system in AN-8.
> > I contest Neil’s claim of being the greatest idiot.
> > In the process of rebuilding it with a AN-10 plumbing and using a Mocal 44 row cooler.
> >
> > Still close to finished!
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Steve Izett
> > Glasair Super IIRG Renesis 4 port RD-1C EC3 EM3
> >
> >
> > > On 31 Jul 2018, at 7:47 pm, Stephen Izett stephen.izett@gmail.com <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi guys
> > > Does anyone know off hand or have a rear housing handy to measure the oil passage diameters (bearing and regulator passages) under the oil filter pedestal of a Renesis?
> > > Much appreciated.
> > >
> > > Steve Izett
> > > --
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