Steve, that sounds same size cooler that I had, was out of a 20b twin turbo cosmo car, pretty sure those cars were only sold by mazda in Japan & Aus being RHD That cooler tricked me as it would allow enough oil through to give rated pressure on gauge, but only at low power would cool, as soon as flight was attempted oil overheated quickly and took long time to cool down, second cooler was same frontal area but 75mm thick, better as would cool hot oil down faster but again only at low power. Over 60 psi pressure drop at rpm, but could have been more as that was max of 140psi gauge I had. I would highly recommend hooking in a temporary pressure gauge (200psi) prior to the cooler to check its pressure drop, you may be surprised how little rpm you need to build pressure. ARE & PWR both in brisbane are only Aus companies I have found to help and getting me quote on coolers similar to Fluidyne. If you want Fluidyne you need third party (someone possibly going to Oshkosh) to carry it back as they will not ship to us. But saying all this you have the series 2 renesis which has different oil setup to all other rotaries, Steve B has same so think his setup would be very relevant to you. Andrew Perhaps I should have asked.
What temperature difference do you think a fluidyn cooler would make?
Steve
> On 27 Jun 2018, at 8:06 am, Stephen Izett stephen.izett@gmail.com <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:
>
> Thanks again Lynn for the ‘good oil’
>
> I would value your thoughts on our oil cooler?
> We have a Mazda cooler but not sure which model its out of. Thought it was one of the turbo models.
> I’m pretty sure it measures 11 x 8.75 inches by about 2 thick.
>
> My question is - lets say that the rest of the oil plumbing is OK - what advantage as a percentage do you believe there would be in exchanging it for a Fluidine of the same dimensions?
>
> Thanks again.
>
> Steve Izett
>
>
>
>> On 27 Jun 2018, at 3:21 am, Accountlehanover lehanover@aol.com <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:
>>
>> Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Oil
>>
>> There are some very thick books about oil and water cooling systems. There are some engineers who spend whole lifetimes on this. I am not one of those. But I have learned quite a bit, mostly the hard way.
>> So here is some of that. No flowing system likes sharp corners. Air, water or oil. Do not use drilled 90s for fittings. Use sweep 90s and 45s. When building coolers you find that the chilled media tends to cling to the tube, causing a loss of efficiency because the hotter media is then being insulated from the tube walls.
>> So, manufactures tend to use fewer flat tubes (less money) and add cheap fixes to get back up to minimum performance. Violent tribulation is required to keep mixing the cooled media with the hottest media. So you see a collection of odd things in the tubes. Mazda uses a Twistoflex watch band lookalike. Others a cross hatch pattern in the tube walls. Fluidine is the class of the field with their inside out radiator design.
>>
>> Every system has one sweet spot for every flow rate, every temperature, every pressure, every media. You can track that sweet spot with a thousand sensors and a lap top. And cooler designers do just that. Everything affects everything.
>>
>> Rotaries run best (Best power) when the oil is below 160 degrees. (Daryl Drummond) . High rotor face temps
>> tend to expand the fuel air mixture entering the chamber quickly, killing off more of the incoming flow. Bad at low RPM. Less bad at high RPM. We raced at Grattan Michigan with the temps at 30 degrees. Water thermostat in place and 2/3 of the radiator taped off. All of the oil radiator taped off. Ran the race with water temps at 120 degrees and oil temps at 150. The thermostat had a 1/8 hole in the edge to let air bubbles through. This is not to suggest that 1/8 inch hose is adequate for cold climates.
>>
>> In olden times when we still used the stock pump we opened the lateral gallery plug and took the oil out of the block right there. Going back into the block at the stock rear Banjo fitting. And the lateral gallery in the front iron to the front main bearing. Later with the massive external pump we still fed that front bearing with its own supply. We did not plug the dowels that connect those two location.
>>
>> Mistral found the oil pickup tube and bug screen to be a problem. The anti vortex disk diameter is stupid small.
>> And so then is the bug screen. I removed the bug screen and added a big flat disc to the end of the tube.
>> I built up the back side with braze and ground the sharp edge down to look like a trumpet bell. The bug screen would filter out a mouse but not small enough to stop the grit that will kill the pump or bearings. I never missed it. Mistral cast up a new pick up tube but without the bug screen. they used a baffle plate between between the pan and engine. It had large areas of screen to perform the bug screen job.
>>
>> The object of higher oil pressure is move oil out of the wedge more quickly so as not to damage the very soft bearing material.
>>
>> Low oil pressure at idle is usually not a problem. No bearing stress at all. 5 or 6 pounds is fine. Minimum loaded pressure not below 60 PSI while looking for nearest to see where you 80 PSI pressure went.
>>
>> If you or some engine builder took out the springs and balls from the crank then low idle pressure cannot be corrected. Used only for constant high RPM in racing. You can put them back in at over haul in about 15 years. Keep in mind that this advice is free. And, worth every penny.
>>
>> Lynn E. Hanover
>>
>>
>
>
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Regards
Andrew Martin
Martin Ag
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