From: "Todd Bartrim" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
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Date: Wed, 31 May 2017 07:59:34 -0700
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Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: The Mazda Oli Cooler
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
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Check Amazon for aluminum A/C & heater cores as well. I picked up one
awhile back for an unrelated project for $15 new. (sale price, but they
always have something on sale)

Todd Bartrim

On Wed, May 31, 2017 at 3:43 AM, Lehanover <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
wrote:

> The air conditioning stuff is pressure rated much higher than is the
> heater stuff by about 100 PSI. It is aluminum rather than brass and copper.
> So, the aluminum is a bit better at dumping heat. So, the aluminum piece
> could be smaller than the brass and perform as well. There are hundreds of
> shapes and sizes of both, so there is an exact shape for your needs out
> there. Find out what car used the shape you want. Pull one at a You Pick It
> yard. Make sure there is still pressure in the system you open. Freon
> systems can hold pressure for years. Warm up the radiator to drain out as
> much oil as is possible. Have a really good welder TIG on some AN fittings
> to suit your system. I wrap the piece in a big wet towel or submerge all
> but the weld area in water. Piece of cake. Or send it to Tech Welding to
> build a custom piece from scratch.
>
> The racer uses 3 , 44row Setrab coolers. Just enough to hold 160 degrees
> at full tilt. About 250 HP. A bit more than 1/3 of all engine cooling is
> done through the oil. You can watch the oil temp go up and down with the
> throttle setting. In 1980 our first rotary powered RX-2 had one big GM evap
> core and worked fine, but that first engine probably had less than 150 HP.
>
> Lynn E. Hanover
>
>
> In a message dated 5/29/2017 6:57:15 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:
>
> Ok thanks Lynn ... but is there anything to be gained from switching to an
> evaporator core Vs a heater core in terms of performance or durability?
>
> Jeff
>
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr">Check Amazon for aluminum A/C &amp; heater cores as well. =
I picked up one awhile back for an unrelated project for $15 new. (sale pri=
ce, but they always have something on sale)</div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"=
><br clear=3D"all"><div><div class=3D"gmail_signature" data-smartmail=3D"gm=
ail_signature"><div dir=3D"ltr">Todd Bartrim</div></div></div>
<br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Wed, May 31, 2017 at 3:43 AM, Lehanover <=
span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net" target=
=3D"_blank">flyrotary@lancaironline.net</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquot=
e class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc sol=
id;padding-left:1ex"><u></u>


<div id=3D"m_7847662208282494534role_body" style=3D"FONT-SIZE:10pt;FONT-FAM=
ILY:Arial;COLOR:#000000"><font id=3D"m_7847662208282494534role_document" co=
lor=3D"#000000" size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial">
<div>The air conditioning stuff is pressure rated much higher than is the h=
eater=20
stuff by about 100 PSI. It is aluminum rather than brass and copper. So, th=
e=20
aluminum is a bit better at dumping heat. So, the aluminum piece could be=
=20
smaller than the brass and perform as well. There are hundreds of shapes an=
d=20
sizes of both, so there is an exact shape for your needs out there. Find ou=
t=20
what car used the shape you want. Pull one at a You Pick It yard. Make sure=
=20
there is still pressure in the system you open. Freon systems can hold pres=
sure=20
for years. Warm up the radiator to drain out as much oil as is possible. Ha=
ve a=20
really good welder TIG on some AN fittings to suit your system. I wrap the =
piece=20
in a big wet towel or submerge all but the weld area in water. Piece of cak=
e. Or=20
send it to Tech Welding to build a custom piece from scratch.</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>The racer uses 3 , 44row Setrab coolers. Just enough to hold 160 degre=
es at=20
full tilt. About 250 HP. A bit more than 1/3 of all engine cooling is done=
=20
through the oil. You can watch the oil temp go up and down with the throttl=
e=20
setting. In 1980 our first rotary powered RX-2 had one big GM evap core and=
=20
worked fine, but that first engine probably had less than 150 HP. </div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>Lynn E. Hanover</div><span class=3D"">
<div>=C2=A0=C2=A0</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>
<div>In a message dated 5/29/2017 6:57:15 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,=20
<a href=3D"mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net" target=3D"_blank">flyrotary@=
lancaironline.net</a> writes:</div>
<blockquote style=3D"PADDING-LEFT:5px;MARGIN-LEFT:5px;BORDER-LEFT:blue 2px =
solid"><font style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR:transparent" color=3D"#000000" size=
=3D"2" face=3D"Tahoma">
  <p>Ok thanks Lynn ... but is there anything to be gained from switching t=
o an=20
  evaporator core Vs a heater core in terms of performance or durability?</=
p>
  <p>Jeff</p></font></blockquote></div></span></font></div></blockquote></d=
iv><br></div>

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