X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com From: Received: from omr-m002e.mx.aol.com ([204.29.186.2] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 6.2c1) with ESMTPS id 9602374 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Thu, 23 Mar 2017 17:03:41 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=204.29.186.2; envelope-from=ARGOLDMAN@aol.com Received: from mtaomg-aag02.mx.aol.com (mtaomg-aag02.mx.aol.com [172.26.126.80]) by omr-m002e.mx.aol.com (Outbound Mail Relay) with ESMTP id B3971380004B for ; Thu, 23 Mar 2017 17:03:25 -0400 (EDT) Received: from core-abb09h.mail.aol.com (core-abb09.mail.aol.com [172.27.0.9]) by mtaomg-aag02.mx.aol.com (OMAG/Core Interface) with ESMTP id 3196B38000081 for ; Thu, 23 Mar 2017 17:03:25 -0400 (EDT) Full-name: ARGOLDMAN Message-ID: <5f6c6.730d0d.46059217@aol.com> Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2017 17:03:20 -0400 Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: more redrive questions To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_5f6c6.730d0d.46059217_boundary" X-Mailer: AOL 9.8 sub 2019 X-Originating-IP: [23.25.33.118] x-aol-global-disposition: G DKIM-Signature: v=1; a=rsa-sha256; c=relaxed/relaxed; d=mx.aol.com; s=20150623; t=1490303005; bh=plehr8qrvsnJk3LrCWVHmoTym9/lKJN/deBHq7E/O0o=; h=From:To:Subject:Message-ID:Date:MIME-Version:Content-Type; b=kJKhUnpUp+eX1wirLXdBPyW/zMFh0to3uaOExZuwArlJ4gsDSfQ9DCj/vfmecnKYm KmrtN7B4A3zDC4XiPF+cGdhjteDdh6wzh7UOZ3P+dLC86DqwLA/tbiwLbYWbxo8fA8 VQr+STYsaUqlwlZKsFbdH114IR2i57hLp/HnSNGM= x-aol-sid: 3039ac1a7e5058d4381d5a74 --part1_5f6c6.730d0d.46059217_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thanks, Charlie. My plan is to T the two together and enter the engine (I will look at your place when I am at the hanger tomorrow.) My thought is to use a branch "T" screwed into the engine, one leg to an AN fitting and the other to contain a magnetic drain plug to catch and find any metal that may be being made by the gear box. If the OMP pad is a good idea I will mill/drill an aluminum pad with a 1/4" npt in one side and a female thread for the mag plug (probably to use a crush washer rather than NPT to make it easier to inspect.) on the other side. Thanks for the suggestion. I will look. Rich In a message dated 3/23/2017 3:49:58 P.M. Central Daylight Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes: edit; see below On Thu, Mar 23, 2017 at 3:39 PM, Charlie England <_flyrotary@lancaironline.net_ (mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net) > wrote: On Thu, Mar 23, 2017 at 2:45 PM, ARGOLDMAN <_flyrotary@lancaironline.net_ (mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net) > wrote: Greetings, I would first like to thank all for the great advice. I have a few final questions 1. In plumbing the oil return, Tracy relates that using the OMP pad is OK.. Is it. It seems to be somewhat above the output fitting on the RD1-c. Is that OK or should I drain it lower if possible? 2. The Renesis has a really small oil pan. Would it be advisable to increase the size? If this is used, what oil level should be used? 3. When the RD is disassembled for inspection, the 1/4" drilling and stud to pry it off of the plate makes sense. However the spacer and gearbox itself are mated-- how do you separate these without damaging them. I think they are sealed together by RTV. Thanks again.. I hope in the future to be contributing on the other side of questions. Rich Not flying yet, but here goes: The easiest place for oil return is the base of the flywheel end rotor housing, ~2" up from the pan mating line, **on the spark plug side of the engine**. Very short run and just slightly downhill. I drilled & tapped 1/4" NPT & screwed in an adapter to AN-6 flair. I drilled & tapped two places, & plugged one. I T'd the two drains as others have done, but I've got an easy plan B if the T'd line doesn't drain fast enough. Pan size? I've got the stock one on now. If you go bigger, don't forget to move the pickup down to the new bottom. 3. When you do get 'em apart, there are sealants that don't harden... Charlie --part1_5f6c6.730d0d.46059217_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Thanks, Charlie.
 
My plan is to T the two together and enter the engine (I will look at= your=20 place when I am at the hanger tomorrow.) My thought is to use a branch "T"= =20 screwed into the engine, one leg to an AN fitting and the other to co= ntain=20 a magnetic drain plug to catch and find any metal that may be being made= by the=20 gear box. If the OMP pad is a good idea I will mill/drill an aluminum= =20  pad with a 1/4" npt in one side and a female thread for the mag plug= =20 (probably to use a crush washer rather than NPT to make it easier to inspe= ct.)=20 on the other side.
 
Thanks for the suggestion. I will look.
 
Rich
 
In a message dated 3/23/2017 3:49:58 P.M. Central Daylight Time,=20 flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:
edit; see below

On Thu, Mar 23, 2017 at 3:39 PM, Charlie Englan= d <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:


On Thu, Mar 23, 2017 at 2:45 PM, ARGOLDMAN <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:
 
Greetings,
I would first like to thank all for the great advice.
 
I have a few final questions
 
1. In plumbing the oil return, Tracy relates that using the OMP= pad=20 is OK.. Is it. It seems to be somewhat above the output fitting on= the=20 RD1-c. Is that OK or should I drain it lower if possible?
 
2. The Renesis has a really small oil pan. Would it be advisabl= e to=20 increase the size? If this is used, what oil level should be used?
 
3. When the RD is disassembled for inspection, the 1/4" drillin= g and=20 stud to pry it off of the plate makes sense. However the spacer and= =20 gearbox itself are mated-- how do you separate these without damagin= g=20 them. I think they are sealed together by RTV.
 
Thanks again.. I hope in the future to be contributing on the= other=20 side of questions.
 
Rich
 
Not flying yet, but= here=20 goes:

The easiest place for oil return is the base= of the=20 flywheel end rotor housing, ~2" up from the pan mating line, **on the= spark=20 plug side of the engine**.  Very short run and just slightly down= hill.=20 I drilled & tapped 1/4" NPT & screwed in an adapter to AN-6 fl= air. I=20 drilled & tapped two places, & plugged one. I T'd the two drai= ns as=20 others have done, but I've got an easy plan B if the T'd line doesn't= drain=20 fast enough.

Pan size? I've got the stock one on now. If= you go=20 bigger, don't forget to move the pickup down to the new bottom. <= /DIV>

3. When you do get 'em apart, there are seala= nts that=20 don't harden...

Charlie
=
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