Make sure to use Epoxy, (not polyester resin), and plan on a good heat shield around the exhaust. A small blast tube would be even better. composite will work but remember it sits above 1600° Exhaust. Tracy runs a simple separator plate under his plywood box so it should be safe, but take no frivolous chances. Fire in your engine compartment is very bad mojo. I have seen one so I may be more sensitive than most.

Bill J.  

On Tue, Jul 5, 2016 at 5:15 PM, Chad Peterson <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:

Right now looking at what it would take to make a manifold out of S glass. Going to peripheral port the housing, and with a plugs up mounting, would be fairly simple matter of laying up some sock type fiberglass on a quartered section of u bend tubing, bonding the flanges over either aluminum or phenolic with traditional mat.

The leaning block is sold off of Paul Lamar's sight.

S glass has great heat insulation properties and is structurally very strong. The raw materials are not expensive, so i can have a lightweight non heat transferring intake cheaper than I can buy anything on the aftermarket.

On Jul 5, 2016 7:03 PM, "Charlie England" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:

Ah, yes; the Mcneily (sp?) leaning block. Sounds like a good plan.

What does your manifold look like?

Another option for ignition that has been discussed, is the Ford EDIS setup, which, IIRC, can use Lynn's dual crank trigger setup. Should be a lot less expensive than MSD.

There's also MegaJolt, if you want MP controlled advance.

Charlie

On 7/5/2016 6:37 PM, Chad Peterson wrote:

There is a remote mixture adapter for the 500cfm Holley 2300 series 2 barrel carb.

Great deal on those magnetos though.

On Jul 5, 2016 6:33 PM, "Charlie England" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:

Hey Chad, why not go totally aircraft quality?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Slick-Magneto-2220-2-cylinder-government-surplus-NEW-/261131236190?hash=item3ccca2735e:m:mCxhlxs4nXtIFbbchDrOH6Q

;-)

Seriously, which carb do you plan to use? While you can get away without a lot of ignition advance with a rotary, you still need to lean it at altitude. Options are out there, but don't forget that you need to have a plan to control mixture.

Charlie

On 7/5/2016 1:37 PM, Chad Peterson wrote:

Might be interested. Was looking at ignition modules and the Pertronix looks like the only one which actually carries multiple sparks past 3000RPM. Also has crank angle offset setting which allows you to adjust when the following sparks fire, would be good for a rotary due to the longer burn time. Only allows to be set up in 4,6, or 8 cylinder mode though so not sure how tach output will read.

They don't offer siamesed coils though, so at minimum i would be interested in those, and curious about other ignition parts available.

Chad.

On Jul 5, 2016 1:25 PM, "Bobby J. Hughes" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:

Chad,

 

If you haven’t purchased the MSD coils I may have some available. Mark Steitle did some experimenting with a similar setup and has a box of MSD parts in his hanger. Not sure exactly what’s in the box but parts were used for a few ground runs. Next trip to the hanger I’ll do an inventory and take a picture.

 

Bobby Hughes

 

 

From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net]
Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2016 12:02 AM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Renesis: just the ignition system

 

Interesting,

Do you have pictures of this system?

I haven't heard of firing both plugs per housing at the same time (most fire the trailing plugs independently and the leading plugs simultaneously with a waste spark cycle). This sounds pretty good, considering only needing 2 modules instead of 3.

On Jul 4, 2016 11:45 PM, "Lehanover" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:

One thick aluminum disc mounted on the front pulley. One iron reluctor mounted in the edge of the disc. A length of 1/4" bolt works fine. Make the disc the same diameter as a Mr. Gasket degree wheel. Mount the degree wheel on the front of the disc. Makes setting timing dead easy.

 

Two pickups mounted 180 degrees apart to be tripped by the reluctor.

 

One pickup fires an MSD or similar so as to light off a double ended coil (MSD has these) or two Blaster coils in parallel if you need the extra weight. To fire leading and trailing plugs in housing one together.

 

The second pickup fires housing two. Keep plug wires as short as is possible.

 

Adjust reluctor disc so as to fire plugs at 20 to 26 degrees BTDC. Good from idle to 10,000 RPM and 250 HP. Used on racing engines for years. Use NGK 11.5 heat range plugs gapped at .010". 

 

Non turbo engines only. Ignition timing is so accurate that the engine appears to be not running when a timing light is used.

 

Lynn E. Hanover

 

In a message dated 7/4/2016 10:42:24 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:

Tracy

 

I'm wanting to use a carbureted Renesis for my build. Eliminating both the fuel injection system and the emissions system, I have no need to keep the stock ECM. What would be the easiest ignition system to use? I'm thinking a hall effect crank angle sensor feeding an MSD 6A/Crane Fireball Hi6/similar low cost unit and three coils: one for each trailing plug and one for both leading plugs (leading plugs fire a waste spark similar to the 2nd and 3rd generation RX7s).

 

Would this be a matter of simply installing a universal aftermarket crank trigger kit and having the sensors trigger an ignition module? Would I need one or three ignition modules to achieve this?

 

Many thanks,

Chad.