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David,
Somewhere I got the impression that your radiator returns were on the top of the radiators. Bottom
should be fine.
I'll embed a couple of comments (and a wp flow diagram) to your comments. ;-)
Mark
The system I propose draws COOLANT off of the BOTTOM. The AIR goes out the
top, at least when you are filling the system on the ground with no flow.
The main purpose is to be able to FILL the system and PURGE ALL AIR - right
out the top of the engine - the highest spot you can find.
Be alert to the possibility of air being trapped in the bypass circuit of the wp housing.
Since I had removed the dual thermostats and welded up the bypass holes, I had to remove
the hex plug (unique to the 20B) on the side of the wp housing to get the pump to
prime. Not sure how you would accomplish this on the 13B. Maybe drill/tap a 1/8npt
in the bypass area of the wp housing? If you kept the thermostat, just remove it while
filling the system.
HOWEVER, if plain old EXPERIENCE were to ever
indicate that air was being trapped in the top of rad, then an AIR VENT LINE
could be installed at high point in rad or a hose there that would feed back
into the bottom (below liquid level) in pressurized expansion tank
This is what I have been recommending. But I plumbed mine to the side fitting of the exp.
tank, still below liquid level.
- would
be a "2ND AIR VENT LINE", with same function as the air vent line from
highest point in engine block back to the expansion tank, below liq level.
Both lines would be flowing a small amt of coolant that would be bypassing
the rad, not being cooled, so, again, the caution to use SMALL AIR BLEED
LINES or RESTRICTOR in the lines.
A line from the top of the engine shouldn't hurt anything, except that the coolant won't
be cooled. As you mention, this is not an issue if the line is kept small. However,
if you have a method to bleed the air at time of filling, then I don't see where this line is
needed. Any air will be caught in the flow and eventually be separated through the
radiator air-bleeder. But, I don't see where it would hurt anything, unless it were to
break in flight.
Air in the system: We have hoses at the water pump inlet and outlet, and
the pump is high up on the engine in a "plugs normal installation".
- Where does the hose from the pump outlet feed back into the engine
block - high or low on engine? (Basic question that I can't visualize
because I don't have an engine yet)?
The wp outlet connects to the top of the front side housing. There are two holes on
that housing where the coolant enters and exits the engine. From the exit, it goes
through the wp housing passages and up through the thermostat and out to the radiator(s).
(Ref. attachment)
- Likewise, where is the "hot coolant outlet" from the engine block
where the hose connects to the radiator? Should be high up near the top
like on all cars?
Yes.
Anyway, the assumed short hose from pump outlet to somewhere on engine could
have a leak;
There is no hose here, only a gasket. (see attachment)
likewise, the hot coolant hose that runs DOWN from near the top
of block to the rads could have a leak anywhere below that outlet from block
all the way down to connections to the radiators.
- As long as there is a head of coolant in the engine, there is going to
be a head of coolant down at the rads, and so the pump is going to have
coolant at the bottom of rads to suck UP to the pump.
Yes, provided we're drawing off the bottom of the radiator and not the top.
- I don't envision any significant pump-stopping air at the bottom where
pump is sucking from as long as there is any coolant in the block.
The
pump is going to suck from bottom of rads and pump out of its outlet into
the engine block and/or out the "leak" until there is ZERO coolant left in
the rads, at which time the pump stops ciruclating - but not because of
"system configuration", rather for lack of liquid.
This is where the rotary is different than other engines. It can get an air-lock in
the coolant bypass circuit. Normally happens when first filling, or re-filling the
cooling system. By the time the thermostat opens, you've damaged the engine.
Once you've "primed" the system, this is probably not going to happen. Although
a coolant shortage could cause the pump to loose its prime.
- Again, I simply assume any AIR THAT IS BEING SUCKED IN AT THE LEAK
will be up ON TOP of the coolant, not down at the bottom of the liquid
column where the pump sucks from.
I think that the air could accumulate anywhere there is insufficient flow to move it
along to somewhere else.
Now, to address the discussion of "What is the best indication of a leak?"
- THIS IS THE BEST SYSTEM: It tells you coolant level in EXPANSION
TANK has decreased too much, BEFORE the level in the BLOCK has even begun to
suck air. This is the ideal warning - warned BEFORE the engine is damaged,
gives "more" time (depending on speed of leak) to take action to land and
save the engine, if that is possible, given where you are and where the
closest landing spot is.
I plan on monitoring Coolant Level (sensor in exp. tank), Coolant Pressure, and
Coolant Temp using Tracy's EM-2.
Mark S.
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